Replies

1. 
   davidmeiland | Mar 10, 2010 07:52pm | #1

   That sounds fairly unlikely to succeed long-term. I just can't see the bond to the glass lasting. If there is cement/sand mortar in the joints, you might try carefully drilling some holes, epoxying in some chunks of stainless all-thread, and then having a piece of sandblasted, tempered glass made that you can mount on the studs using spacers and cap nuts. There is nice hardware available for stuff like this.

1. 
   barmil | Mar 10, 2010 11:09pm | #3

   I know, you're an engineer at NASA, aren't you?

1. 
   davidmeiland | Mar 11, 2010 12:58am | #4

   Who, me? We just did a project that involved mounting a bunch of tempered obscure glass and it worked out really well. I'd do that before I'd try to glue backerboard to glass block and then tile it, especially in a wet area.

2. 
   DanH | Mar 10, 2010 09:25pm | #2

   I would think you could get a decent bond with the right adhesive.  Not sure PL Preminum is the one, but there are a number of adhesives that do well on glass.  Just don't use a hard adhesive like unmodified cyanoacrylate (Super/Krazy Glue) -- the glue needs to be flexible as it will be subjected to significant thermal stresses.

1. 
   davidmeiland | Mar 11, 2010 01:01am | #5

   Uh, yeah, PL Premium would be a disaster as it foamed up and dripped out and pushed the backerboard off the wall. Enough cyanoacrylate to do even a small area would cost a fortune, spreading it and getting the board into place would be a nightmare, and you'd probably choke on the fumes. Is there a specific adhesive you'd recommend?

1. 
   DanH | Mar 11, 2010 07:23am | #7

   I was thinking that tile mastic would do a pretty good job.  But there are several varieties, and some would do better than others.

3. 
   MarkH | Mar 11, 2010 06:26am | #6

   I would use this urethane adhesive designed to adhere to unprimered auto glass to mount the backerboard, if I was going that route.  But I would just hang a curtain over it myself.

   I worked with auto glass in my past, and despised the tenacity of urethane adhesives when trying to remove them.

   C.R. LAURENCE PP302MV CRL POWR 302MV Series Primerless-to-Glass Medium Viscosity Urethane

   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002CXLQRE/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_3?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0002KKVFM&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1NTTX8H7MFP54HW2H0ZC

4. 
   Frankie | Mar 11, 2010 09:01am | #8

   You can directly apply any masonry backer board (Durock, Hardibacker, Wonderboard) to the glass block using  SCS2000 SilPruf, made by GE.

   You can find the specs for this at their website:

   http://momentive.com/Internet/Sealants/Industry/Glazing+_PLUS_+Curtainwall/Glazing+%26+Curtainwall/Structural+Glazing/SCS2000+SilPruf*?productid=289dd6680262d110VgnVCM1000002a25340a____

    

5. 
   k1c | Mar 12, 2010 05:00pm | #9

   glass block

   I can understand that you want to get rid of the window there and have a nice clean tile wall.  But patched tile wall will give you problems with cracking grout and glue and underlayment showing from outside.  Condensation may become problem too.  I put plastic curtain over the window over my tub.  If you can't find the right curtain, try using shower curtains cut to size.  You also may regret losing the sun.  Hope it helps.

1. 
   Homewright | Mar 19, 2010 10:52pm | #10

   Another option

   If it were me, I'd try getting some etching paste and maybe do a design with  a template of self adhesive material.  Tile out the window  as usual but make the window a decorative yet private element in the room.