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Was just wondering about a plan i had. We have used 6″ wide t&g flooring in a new build i did a few years ago. Worked pretty nice and at 1.70 a bd ft was much cheaper than any other wood flooring. What i was wondering was sense i had two layers of subflooring already down in our old farm house (t&g pine and 3/4 ply) couldn’t i just face nail yellow pine boards that weren’t t&g? I mean whats the t&g for but stiffness? Its not going anywhere with the exsiting sub floor and i can get the pine boards for less w/o the milling. What do you think? The house is civil war era and i like the idea of face nailing. Pros and cons? Should i glue as well? Maybe just down the middle so it can move around? Any ideas would help. Thanks,
Kelvin
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Kevin, I've done several floors with shiplap 1x6 YP - we use cut nails, 2 per joist, drill holes, spaced about 1 1/4" in from each edge - a nice look - only negative I see about unmilled boards is deeper cracks. T&G helps keep wild grain under control, but you should cull those boards out anyway - don't see any advantage to gluing - I would make sure the boards are dry enough that they will not shrink signifigantly after installation.
*Kevin, do not glue the floor. You want it to move (expand and contract with the tempeture and humidity). Nailind with cut nails in pre-drilled holes is a great look but be careful of hammer head marks from misses in the pine . It dents very easy. I let my nephew drill and nail the floor with a piece of 1/4" plywood with three holes in a row for 8 in. pine . It kept the nails centered off the edges and hammer marks off the floor. You have to go back and countersink the heads but this must be done before sanding anyway. Good luck.
*Kevin,One down side to yellow pine is that it makes for a softer floor. NO HIGH HEALS. Not that it doesn't make quite a nice floor. It just wears faster. My point to this is unless the nails are all counter sunk by hand, every one, you can not machine finish the floor, i.e. sanding. You can get the genuine look although more square nails floor have a wider plank. It's a personal decision but be aware of the sanding/nail problem.David
*Kelvin,Face nails pooch up, they ALWAYS pooch up.Don't get me wrong, it looks great but .... the holes in your socks and feet.... and your wife's feet make it not worth it in my humble opinion. I work in the old house business, 17+18th c. mostly, and I have people ask for that all the time and do it gladly when they insist... but I don't advise it. If you're set on the look, use a cut nail with a large fancy head. There is a company called Tremont nail that makes a wonderful selection. The soft pine will wear around the nail heads and look really nice and old-timey in a few years. The larger heads will also be easier to avoid than say an 8d finish. Any one who face nails a floor with an 8d finish should be cursed with walking it shoeless at 5am. Also, nothing against mr. Doud, but I would think you would have a real problem with cupping if you shiplap. If the stock you have is lapped, I'd just rip 'em square. T + G is best for flatness though.Good luck and check out Tremont Nail.BeWell, PB
*face nail... yeah Tremont, if you want that look .. they're on Cape Cod....but me, i'd stick to the blind nailed T&G..b but hey, whadda i no ?
*I'm considering wide plank pine flooring for my house, and I have found a plethora of dealers and ordered their brochures. Everyone of them seems to do it differently, square edge, ship lap, T&G, etc. Most of them said that larger size T&G is diffuclt to install. Check out some of these web sites:www.craftsmanlumber.comwww.timberknee.ocmwww.authenticpinefloors.comwww.wideplankflooring.comwww.southernwoodfloors.comthat's just the beginning, but each one of these companies have been more than willing to help on installation, and finishing questions.P.S. where did you get that price, were you happy with the quality etc.?
*Just ordered some wide plank flooring from Carlisle out of New Hampshire (varied widths of 10 to 15 inches. The sales rep recommended flat edge rather than T&G. His book of instrcutions recommends gluing and nailing withy cut nails. The rep also gave me a hint on hammer marks in the soft pine: put a little water on it and the mark will nearly disappear. One of the things he stressed was to make sure the wood climatized in the house at least two weeks before installing.
*A cedar shingle with a saw kerf slid around the nail helps on those bad days when you can't hit the broad side of the barn with the hammer. Ditto the comments on the wood acclimating to the house ......important with any floor but even more so with wide plank floors.
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Was just wondering about a plan i had. We have used 6" wide t&g flooring in a new build i did a few years ago. Worked pretty nice and at 1.70 a bd ft was much cheaper than any other wood flooring. What i was wondering was sense i had two layers of subflooring already down in our old farm house (t&g pine and 3/4 ply) couldn't i just face nail yellow pine boards that weren't t&g? I mean whats the t&g for but stiffness? Its not going anywhere with the exsiting sub floor and i can get the pine boards for less w/o the milling. What do you think? The house is civil war era and i like the idea of face nailing. Pros and cons? Should i glue as well? Maybe just down the middle so it can move around? Any ideas would help. Thanks,
Kelvin