Countertop laminate over particleboard deck. Traditional solvent based, or newer neoprene?
Any feedback on shelf life of these? I have a couple nearly full quart cans of neoprene based that are probably 18 months old. I’m tempted to use them but don’t want to blow the job for a few dollars worth of glue.
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I've used the water- based contact cement for at least 10 yrs. now with no problems. I buy whatever my laminate supplier carries ( usually Formica brand ). Buy new glue, the stuff does have a shelf life and you don't want any call backs just to save a few bucks.
i use lepages latex and have for many years, no smell, no fire hazard
takes longer to dry though than solvent based
shelf life? no idea but i wouldnt risk it
keep in mind that latex cement can not be frozen
caulking is not a piece of trim
Solvent based is the way to go.
It's the only bit of happy time I get now that the boss drug tests.
I seem to do a countertop or 2 a year, so take my advice accordingly.
Never use water-based contact-cement, it sux. I was burned badly 10 years ago ( p-lam all peeled) and swore off the stuff. Seems like all the regular cabinet guys use solvent based glue. I always get the glue at the p-lam distributer, not at a lumber yard. Get the stuff that sez for pros only. Be sure to follow all directions and wear a resperator (sp) and turn off the pilot lights.
soory, but like i said, i use latex stuff regularly like 2 or 3 tops a week for over 10 years
never had a delamination problem
i use postform grade laminate over particle board and it sticks like crazy, cant even peel a top even using a heat guncaulking is not a piece of trim
Most of the time the water based needs to be tapped for a positive bond. If you only role it lightly there is ( in my experience) a risk of a very week bond. I do about 3 a month without callback on the lamination of plastic. I did once try to use water based on a 10" window jamb extention veneer (1/16" thick) to turn pine into maple. It delaminated with air bubbles forming. But... I blame it on not getting all the old finish properly prepared to accept the glue. I probably should have primed it .
I have even used the contact like a white glue for cabinet parts connections.(Malamine) Usually where White surface thouches a White surface to aid a couple of screws.
i agree some what, i always roll my laminate out REALLY well with a J roller with maximum weight and yes its tiring and i usually tap the edged as well with a rubber mallet
but ive never had a call back and have been using latex contact cement for over ten years
critical things seem to be temperature, drying time and adequet pressure
laminate at 65 f or above, allow the adhesive to dry really well, like clear and put lots of pressure on it when rolling
i've seen huge bubbles under the laminate after lamination, disappear after installation and a little heat from a heat gun will ensure bondingcaulking is not a piece of trim
From the one or two countertops a year category, I highly recommend spending the extra cash for spray cans. Makes it easy to apply the stuff evenly. Plus I got tired of always having barely used gallon cans laying around.