I’ve got a homeowner who wants a minor miracle, but the only way I can see doing it is to make a plunge-flush cut. I can’t have a ragged cut nor any over-cut. The Multimaster seems like it’s the perfect tool, but I don’t really want to ante up $399 for the kit-and it would be great if I could get it asap and not have to wait for a delivery. Are there any other alternatives out there? Thank you.
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Sharp chisel?
the multimaster is so well regarded because it does the jobs that nothing else will. as for your problem , give us more details and maybe one of us sawdust makers can help.
toolman65
peter griffen: "hey brian, look at this, my alphabits have formed a
word. they're saying 'Ooooooo'".
brian (the dog) :" you're eating cheerios, peter"
How about an Azebiki or Azibiki saw?
View Image
http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/indextool.mvc?prodid=MS-JS550
http://www.japanwoodworker.com/product.asp?s=JapanWoodworker&pf_id=15%2E121%2E20&dept_id=13088
If you need an offset handle a veneer saw might work
http://www.veneersupplies.com/product_info.php?products_id=609
Edited 9/8/2008 11:25 pm ET by RevTed
Thanks for the suggestions. The job is to cut out rotted wood at the bottom of door jambs, but not affect the door jamb itself--essentially cutting out rectangles at the bottom of the jamb and replacing them with fresh wood. I wanted to just replace the entire jamb and rehang the door, but the homeowner just wants the rotted sections at the bottom replaced. I made initial cuts with a rotozip attachment, but it doesn't cut deep enough, plus it's a circular saw so there is overcut. A Multimaster would be perfect, but it looks like its going to be a sharp chisel.
Who says you gotta spend $400? Get the older version - you can probably find em for $180 or so and that's with a flush cut blade.Or - check Ebay, shoot, even buy the single speed model.For all of us multimaster users out here - how many of you (me included) hardly ever use it at anything less than full speed?I've never really needed more power, and the blade slippage issue is not one that bothers me that much at all.Maybe at times when you are really pushing laterally on the blade, but in normal use - not a problem.Don't hesitate to invest in tools that save you time, money and allow results superior and faster than other methods.JT
You're right JT. I'll pick one up on eBay because I've needed it before, and I really need it now. I was just hoping for a solution so I could whip out the project tomorrow. Thanks again.
If you buy without the case - let me know - you can have my old plastic multimaster case.Honestly, it's kind of crappy, but it'd be better than nothing.Maybe cost $10-14 to ship...Julian
What is wrong with a sharp hand saw? You already have the cut started and all you have to do is finish it from what I am reading.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
Buying big ticket tools to save customers money is a you lose situation.
Taking the Multimaster out of the box should cost the customer about $120.
$60 for the blade you are about to ruin
$60 for the blade to replace it.
In your situation I would remove the casing and doorstop and cut with a handaw or circular saw. Cutting with a circular saw on a bevel would give you a lap to join the new piece."Perfect is the enemy of Good." Morrison
"Taking the Multimaster out of the box should cost the customer about $120.$60 for the blade you are about to ruin$60 for the blade to replace it."I don't understand this.it reads like you're charging two customers for the same blade.
bobl Volo, non valeo
Baloney detecter WFR
"But when you're a kibbutzer and have no responsibility to decide the facts and apply the law, you can reach any conclusion you want because it doesn't matter." SHG
Let's put it this way. You enter the job with a new blade, after catching a nail, the first blade is toast. You bring out a second blade to finish the job.
That's 2 blades. "Perfect is the enemy of Good." Morrison
Just hearsay, but MM basic patent is expirieng (too lazy to check date on web), but expect a $8.99 version from HF anytime soon.
I've done that with a plain old fifteen dollar handsaw and a lot of patience BTW, Letting the customer dictate HOW you will do the repair is bad busines all the way around. When they start that with me, I ask them to clarify what the end result should be, then I determine the best way to get from here to there.
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Edited 9/9/2008 2:18 pm ET by Piffin
Thanks to all for comments and suggestions. A little hand-drywall saw, lots of patience, a chisel, a sharp utility knife, and I got a pretty clean rectangular hole which I replaced with fresh wood. It fit well. Replaced the threshold, putty, caulk, and well finish it up tomorrow. I'm sure I would have done it in half the time with a MM, but it looks pretty good.
Thanks again!
tt
Not to beat a dead dog but what Piffin told you about the customer and they dictating how you do a job is dead on. Dont let them tell you how to do it, you tell them, your the pro.
I'm usually not to interested in saving the customer money at my expense. Again, not trying to beat a dead dog here, just trying to reiterate the good advice that Piff gave to you.
Doug
I know you're right. These folks are not "clients" in the purest sense. They're acquaintances/friends, and they've helped me out quite a bit, so I'm returning the favor. They have a lot of stuff at their house that needs a lot of attention, and they also spent a lot of money on stuff that was just hacked over by a guy less than a year ago--so i'm going through and correcting a lot of his work. It reminds of "Holmes on Homes." I crack up up when I think of that guy. "Tear it out!" Unfortunately, these folks have a many instances where it would make sense to tear it out, they just don't have the funds or the patience to do it over. I feel for them.
With real clients, I am much more insistent on what I will and will not do.
I appreciate all of your feedback.
prying the casings back is not an option? That would be the best way in my opinion and then you could cut it out with a hand saw.
These folks are not "clients" in the purest sense. They're acquaintances/friends, and they've helped me out quite a bit
That's why I didn't want to harp on ya cause we all have friends/acquaintances........like that and we make exceptions to our rules. Just thought it important enough to reiterate.
Doug
I did just that back in April. I don't own a MM but asked my brother-in-law to stop by with his. Long story short, he got there alot later than planned and by that time, I had the rotted part already cut out with a chisel (I think) and maybe a sharpened putty knife as well.
I used Azek for the replacement pieces. It took a long time to cut them accurately but once the jambs were painted the repairs are almost invisible.
How many rotten door jambs are you talking about? If it's one door two jambs pull the case if possible plunge cut with a new blade and handsaw/chisel the rest. Now if your talking 4 or 5 doors tell your "friend" that to do the job right and efficiently they need to pony up for at least 1/2 of the new MM. You don't need to tell them your buying a new tool but that you need to get some $$ for doing the job.
I feel your pain seems like once your family and friends know your a carpenter/electrician/painter/mason...you get the call "hey I need someone to help me do this.." Hey I'm not calling my friend the Doctor looking for a free checkup. Actually I help out lot's of people with projects too.
drill a bunch of small holes then use the roto zip for the straight cut, then use a sharp chisel . how deep will the roto zip cut ?you can do do it without a multi master it will just take a little longer
Just buy the Multimaster. I got mine at Rockler for $199, with a few blades.
You'll like it so much that you'll find a lot of uses for it.
I just bought more blades for mine... 4 different for a total of $151. They are not cheap.... luckily, neither am I ;-)
I refuse to accept that there are limitations to what we can accomplish. Pete Draganic
Take life as a test and shoot for a better score each day. Matt Garcia
Stall your client for a month or two until the Dremel version of the MM comes out. Supposedly $99 retail or so.
Shawn
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If you are close I will loan you one of my Bosch Finecut saws, maybe even my MM. Only have to replace the blade you toast (;-).
The Bosch will do it but the technique is a little harder to learn without overcutting. Like said before one of the Japanese type saws would probably do it. HF has a god selection of flush-cut hand saws.
Bob
Edited 9/9/2008 1:52 pm ET by rasconc
Hard to suggest alt ways to accomplish goal without knowing more of what you are doing.
But for customers who want the impossible, they know they need to pay more than for just the difficult. Bill them a reasonable amt to cover the investment, and a hazard pay amt to cover for when the wife says, "You paid HOW MUCH for that little bitty thing?!"
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
Have you considered a biscuit joiner? You can do alot of jamb cutting with a biscuit joiner. Not much adjustability, but you can set it on a block and cut any height you want. Then you only have the depth issue to get around. I dont know if it will work in your situation, but can in some.
On the other hand, another vote for the MM. I love the tool and was hesitant when I bought ours 4 years ago, but I keep finding more and more uses for it. Sometimes you wonder what you ever did without it. Actually used it today in a situation that would have been a MESS without it
I love my MM, but have you seen this guy? It arrives in October.
Bosch PS50-2A
I looks like the Bosch is releasing on October 1 for $199. I'm there.
Uh o, looks a lot like their detail sander. Hope it's better than that piece of ****(self-censored)
I have the Multimaster. I bought it recently and it was hard dropping about $300, but I'm not sorry since I'm sure it will pay for itself.
The Bosch is 2/3 the cost, but it's only 12 volts. I've used my Multimaster twice so far. One job would have been OK with a cordless, but the other one definitely required corded power.
Just something to think about.
On the other hand, if Harbor Freight had one for less than $100, I would have taken my chances.
I was wondering whether the 12V/cordless aspect would be a disadvantage.
Is that thing only going to be in a cordless or are they going to be available in both?
Doug
I know that Bosch makes a corded version called the, "Bosch PMF 180 E Multi", but I don't know if they sell it her in the U.S. or if there are any plans to sell it here in the U.S.
Buy a cheap jamb saw from a tile shop. You don't need a multimaster or a crain if you're just cutting a few jambs.
Billy
Edited 9/12/2008 10:22 pm ET by Billy
Forstner bit (or similar) to hog out the bulk of the stuff, clean it up with a sharp chisel.
Just like a mortise.
check out this site on Ebay. It is a seller {tool store} in Great Britain that sells Bosch. The bosch equivalent to the Fein Multi-master shows a cost of 63.99 British pounds. That works out to about $115.00 US dollars plus about 6.00 in shipping charges. I've bought blades from them and gotten delivery in about five days. They are very reputable. Their blades are as nice as Fein blades, but alot cheaper. How about $12.23 US. One caution: they only fit the older style multimaster, without the star. Everyone is looking around for cheaper blades and this seems to be the best price available.
The machine itself (180E) is supposed to be available in the states sometime next year, but you can buy it now for just the shipping charge.
Plus, there is no guarantee it won't cost more here when introduced.
Scroll down the page for a interactive tour about the tool It's a nice presentation. This tool is corded.
What site was that?Is the corded version from GB set to operate on 110v AC?
sorry about that. I forgot to paste the site. That's a good question about the 110 volts. I don't know, but I'll email the site & find out.http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?from=R40&_trksid=m37.l1311&satitle=multimaster+blades&category0=The site shows all the Fein blades, so go down to the bottom of the page to find the bosch blade section.I just emailed the seller and I'll post his answer as soon as I receive it. Tonight is Saturday so I may not hear back until Monday.
Edited 9/13/2008 10:28 pm ET by retiree
Well, Shucks!
It appears to be 230 volts.
http://www.bosch-do-it.co.uk/boptocs2-uk/Product.jsp?country=GB&lang=en&ccat_id=95226&object_id=14153
Think I'll wait for the 110 version to arrive.......Was looking at the Bosch blades. What's with their segment blade that's like 240degrees? Might as well be round, a full 360.
Kinda weird seeing green DIY type tools from bosch. Wonder if that stuff is comparable to ryobi or firestorm stuff here? Heck they even have one of those circular self sharpening cutters that I've seen like the black and decker ones. Some of the tools look almost identical to their blue versions though.
Well, I thought I had found a good alternative to the multimaster. Let's hope Bosch introduces the 180E into the American market with a 110Volt model. In the meantime, the blades are a good deal if you have the older style Multimaster.
Yeah, I may try some of the Bosch blades offa Ebay.
Screw a saw blade on to your palm sander