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Building Addition on Piers

| Posted in General Discussion on February 10, 2001 04:26am

*
I will be adding a 12′ x 16′ additon to my shop. Rather than incur the expense of a full foundation, I plan to use 8″ diameter piers. For a sill, I will bolt on a 2×6 then nail three 2×6’s together to form a beam. This will be set on edge and toenailed to the bolted 2×6 sill. I plan to have 6′ or less between piers. I will then use hangers to attach the floor joists to the sill and beam.

Does this seem adequate and within most building codes? Or do I need to go with 2×8’s instead of the 2×6 sill arrangement?

All opinions welcome!!

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  1. Ryan_C | Feb 08, 2001 02:08am | #1

    *
    More info please. We love to give structural advice even when there's not enough info to do so but we need alittle more.

    How's a beam on edge toe nailed to a sill and supported every six feet? What's the joist span, floor area, floor load, roof load, snow load, one story or two, how many beams? Tell the whole story and we'll all be happy to give you conflicting information.

    1. Gary_Reynolds | Feb 08, 2001 02:20am | #2

      *OK, more info. The sill is bolted to the piers which will be spaced no greater than 6' apart. The beam on edge is then toenailed to the sill. This method replaces using a single 6x6 beam sill.The span of the floor joists is the 12' width of the room. The floor area is, of course, the 12' x 16' area of the addition. The floor load is normal as the room will not support heavy equipment or materials. Snow load? Hell, how do I know? It is located in the Northeast. So snow? Yes! One story. Walls will be 2x4 construction.Roof will be 2x6's. The roof is a typical gable with sufficient pitch.Need more? Holler!!

      1. Mike_Smith | Feb 08, 2001 04:43am | #3

        *why don't you change the method to pole -building structure ?clean and neat...

        1. Gary_Reynolds | Feb 08, 2001 02:25pm | #4

          *Mike,I have heard of pole building but not real familiar. Would this be appropriate for an addition to an existing shop which is built on a full foundation? What are the basic particulars?

          1. Ryan_C | Feb 08, 2001 03:04pm | #5

            *Mike, I know you've said before that you have pole built some additions. I've done barns and outbuildings this way but wouldn't know how to go about skirting the addition. What's the procedure?

          2. Mike_Smith | Feb 08, 2001 03:36pm | #6

            *if you can get a pad of compacted suitable fill adjacent to the existing structure.. you can put poles in and tie the two structures together..oftentimes we'll use poles for a little 5x6 jog to enlarge a kitchen.. or a bathmy office is a cement block building with a block foundation.. the addition is a 20 x 26 pole structure with an insulated slab...the pole structure can have a framed floor.... or a slab on grade..we usually overframe them so the building inspector won't ask for stamped prints...ie: set the pole closer than the barn builders use... increase the size of the horizontals..the bottom PT skirt becomes teh form for the slab on grade..if you have a grade problem.. you can stack the PT to step down or up...

          3. Mike_Smith | Feb 08, 2001 11:42pm | #7

            *here' s the junction of the cement block building (front ) with the pole barn addition on the rear..

          4. Mike_Smith | Feb 08, 2001 11:44pm | #8

            *and here's a view of teh polebarn addition..see the sloping grade.. and the stacked PT 2x10..

          5. Mike_Smith | Feb 08, 2001 11:47pm | #9

            *here's a close-up of the intersection of the cement block building with the pole-barn addition..

          6. Mike_Smith | Feb 08, 2001 11:49pm | #10

            *and rotated...

          7. Doug_Moench | Feb 09, 2001 12:16am | #11

            *Flat roof, built up. Can I redo it myself?My problem: an aging flat roof. Bigger problem: no money. I've got skills and would like to tear off the old built up roof, fix decking where its soft and rotten and re do the roof with layers of barrier paper, tar paper and tar/asphalt, the stuff that comes in 5 gallon buckets from my home lumber yard, then, when dry, coat it all with the silver stuff, which is often used on mobile homes. I'd redo the edge flashing of course and mop it on good and thick.Will this work? What are the pitfalls? HELP!!

          8. Mad_Dog | Feb 09, 2001 02:58am | #12

            *Doug:You're blurting, and desperate, and hijacking a good thread.You should start your own discussion-but check the archives first--we've discussed a lot about flat roofs. My sympathy to you, I have the same problem but I intend to put a gable roof where flat should never have been. Will be happy to try and help you with your problem if I can but this thread isn't about roofing...MD

          9. Gary_Reynolds | Feb 09, 2001 03:52pm | #13

            *Looks really good, Mike. Could you explain the pole building technique a bit. Is the pole a PT beam inserted into the ground and resting on a cement footing? If so, what is the projected life of the pole? I like the way the bottom is closed in with the 2x10's. Did you do anything to insulate the floor? Is pole building readily accepted by the planning dept.s in RI? Have any sketches showing the pole foundation and floor joist assembly? Sorry for so many questions, but your method is interesting.

          10. Doug_Moench | Feb 09, 2001 09:12pm | #14

            *Please accept an apology for the hijacking... it was not intentional. I meant to get a message on the general board. Sorry. But your point about a gable roof... it is something I've thought about many times, as the best solution, just not the cheapest.

          11. Mad_Dog | Feb 10, 2001 04:26pm | #15

            *No problem Doug,As a matter of fact I cannot post a new message in the woodshed tavern, not sure but may have something to do with being kind of a smartass.Right, the gable roof wouldn't be the cheapest route to go. The cheapest route to go is what the previous homeowners did here-get driveway sealer and throw that on once a year. Unreal. I have a few other reasons to do it this way--the roof pitches slightly at the bottom of another gable roof and water, ice etc. collects in this area; it won't drain off. Second, It will give me many options for insulating the kitchen underneath, and bumping it out about 5 feet. I'll remove a skylight and add another one in a better location, and rewire the entire ceiling under this new roof, conveniently all at once.So, a few roof leaks can turn into a kitchen remodel, all you have to do is use your imagination!Now, back to building on piers...MD

  2. Gary_L_Reynolds | Feb 10, 2001 04:26pm | #16

    *
    I will be adding a 12' x 16' additon to my shop. Rather than incur the expense of a full foundation, I plan to use 8" diameter piers. For a sill, I will bolt on a 2x6 then nail three 2x6's together to form a beam. This will be set on edge and toenailed to the bolted 2x6 sill. I plan to have 6' or less between piers. I will then use hangers to attach the floor joists to the sill and beam.

    Does this seem adequate and within most building codes? Or do I need to go with 2x8's instead of the 2x6 sill arrangement?

    All opinions welcome!!

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