I’m a bit of a beginner and I’m about to start on a project. I want to make sure I’ve got the sequence right. In a nutshell I’m removing old shiplap siding, installing OSB sheathing, installing new windows, and installing new fiber cement lap siding. Let me know if you see anything wrong with the following:
1. Remove existing siding and trim.
2. Remove existing windows.
3. Remove tar paper behind existing siding.
4. Install OSB sheathing. Cut window openings.
5. Install Tyvek housewrap.
6. Install new windows.
7. Install exterior window trim and corner boards.
8. Install fiber cement lap siding.
(9. Install interior window trim)
Thanks in advance!
Replies
Add 5b
Wrap window opennings with tarpaper or vycor in preparation for new windows
Excellence is its own reward!
"The first rule is to keep an untroubled spirit.
The second is to look things in the face and know them for what they are."
--Marcus Aurelius
Just curious, why the OSB? Is your existing sheathing in poor condition or non-existent? I prefer grade-D tar-paper to house wraps. Paper before windows, wrap it into the openings and create a drip-pan with one of the bituminous products made for that purpose.
If you use windows with nailing fins, wrap paper first, then bottom pan, install windows, wrap over side flanges with window-wrap, install drip flashing to top of window, install window-wrap over vertical portion of drip flashing and top of side wrap, paper wall section over windows. There is much written in the archives on the subject if you care to read it.
Fiber-cement is a good choice.
steve
There is currently no sheathing under the existing teardrop siding. I'm not sure if sheathing is required - who do I ask? Is that a building code question? I figured it'd be best in my earthquake prone area to do what I can to increase the shear strength of my walls.
Not sure why Tyvek - I thought that was industry standard. It seems to provide a much tighter seal than tar paper, and I like that it is breathable.
> earthquake prone area
If it's shear strength you want, forget OSB. The drill here is to use 1/2" Structural #1 plywood. Nailing is 6" on the edges and 12" in the field IIRC. The Los Angeles Department of Building and Safety has a handout called the "Type V Sheet" that gives the details on this. You might be able to get it from their web site. I think it's ladbs.lacity.org, but I can't try it without losing what I've typed so far.....
-- J.S.
"but I can't try it without losing what I've typed so far....."
What are you using a handcranked computer with Cryola brand browsers <G>?
Netscape will allow you to open multiple copies of the browsers. Cntl-N will (also File, New) bring up a new copy and you can brows a new site.
LOL
My thinking exactly..
Excellence is its own reward!
"The first rule is to keep an untroubled spirit.
The second is to look things in the face and know them for what they are."
--Marcus Aurelius
It's the company machine, a prehistoric pentium, with MSFT internet explorer. Opening another instance of IE will sometimes crash it. So, basically you got it right..... ;-)
-- J.S.
You might be able to get it from their web site. I think it's ladbs.lacity.org, but I can't try it without losing what I've typed so far.....
Why not? Can't you just open a new browser window and type the address in there to test it? Or are you on some OS that doesn't allow 2 browser sessions? Or alternatively, copy what you typed to clipboard using Ctrl + C and re-paste it after you return to this site after testing the forementioned url. 2nd browser window seems much easier.
I started doing the same thing you're doing last year (did finish the garage) then managed to bust both wrists on another project. I was not replacing my windows or sheathing though - windows were relatively new and high quality and 1x sheathing was in good shape save for lower boards around garage.
Are you keeping the same exposure? Is this a one-man show? I changed mine from 8" to 7" because of looks and particular siding design/ dimensions. Also changed from straight beveled wood clap to beaded smooth FC.
Go to the web site of not only the mfg of your siding but all other mfgs like cemplank, hardi, certainteed, etc. I heard that hardi bought cemplank and heck, who owns who nowadays. I screwed mine on but if I had to do it over again (and I do on the main house), I would do one screw, level, then power nail.
Rent scaffolding - its unbelievably cheap. Make a drawing(s) and figure out how much you need and add, say, 5-10% for waste. By all means buy the pre-primed FC and apply one finish coat while its on the ground and another after its up. Buy the caulk the siding mfg recommends and a good gun - mine cost about $20 and it is worth every penny. Use diamond blades with the makita saws and a shop vac and you will experience near dustless cutting or I could sell you almost new PC shears if you are NOT doing beaded siding.
Good Luck,
Eric Svendson
RE housewraps in general:
When housewraps (i.e., Tyvek and others) first came out, they seemed like the perfect product - strong, durable, easy to apply, breathable, etc., but lately, here in the NW, we've been getting lots of reports of dryrot and other problems beneath housewraps. Who knows whether these problems would have occurred with other products like building paper or felt as well, but............
Most of the builders I know have gone back to using 15# or 30# felt for moisture barrier. My business is mainly remodel, and I have seen many an old house with felt or kraft paper (sometimes even newsprint) under the siding with no rot or degradation whatever after 75-100 yrs.
> I have seen many an old house with felt or kraft paper (sometimes even newsprint) under the siding with no rot or degradation whatever after 75-100 yrs.
This may be a function of what the siding is. My place is stucco from 1926, and the old paper is disintigrating from moisture, which has long been getting though to the wood.
-- J.S.
John,
Out of curiosity, what part of the country are you from? I used to remodel in the SF Bay Area where stucco is really common. We normally used 2 layers of grade D building paper under the scratch coat. We didn't see much rot beneath stucco walls. unless it was physically damaged. (not so with EIFS!) Here in the rainy NW, stucco is rare. I've always assumed that is because it seems more suited to Mediterranean or Spanish style architecture, which we don't have much of here, but perhaps it's also because stucco is not a very good siding choice in rainy climates, since it tends to absorb moisture.
I'm in Hollywood CA, right across Melrose from the Paramount lot.
-- J.S.
Also, do remember head flashings for the windows and doors, and use plenty of good quality caulking. Most of the dryrot and other problems we see are the result of water infiltrating behind the moisture barrier (e.g., at window openings) and not having an outlet.
If you follow the window mfgr's instructions, you should be OK. Don't skimp on the caulk!
dont forget
1.dumpster
2.insulation