Long time lurker. I can usually find answers here to all my questions. I don’t remember seeing this one before.
I would like to replace the front door and plastic sidelight with a one piece door-sidelight unit. The current sidelight is built into the opening. The header is only over the door. The door opening is set back about 18 inches from the outside wall. There is another header spanning the opening on the outside wall. The opening is about 55 inches wide. The headers seem to be made from 2 2X10’s nailed together. That’s 2 headers within 18 inches.
The house was built in 1973. the edge of the trusses rest on the front outside wall. The overhangs are added on to the trusses.
If I don’t need a header over the door unit, could I use a 2X4 laying flat for the top of the rough opening? Then add a couple of cripples over that and fill the rest with insulation? If I do need the header, is it OK to use a header hanger for the end over the sidelight?
Thanks, George
Replies
Can you get up into the attic to see how the trusses are framed? Lots of times there will be what we call "cant(aliever) blocks" running vertically between the top and bottom chords directly above that header above the door.
If you don't have those blocks, the header at the wall line is probably carrying the weight, but if the trusses were engineered with those cant blocks, you probably need the inner header as well.
Awfully hard to say without inspecting it in person, though. When in doubt overbuild. Wouldn't be that hard to run a new continuous header, would it?
If that were mine, I'd either go back with a two-piece situation, door and sidelight separate (first choice), or I'd put a new continuous header in. Don't compromise the structural integrity of your house.
View Image"...everone needs to sit on a rock, listen to the surf, and feel the ocean breeze in their face once in awhile."
cambriadays.com
from what I can see you need a header
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
Why? The door will act as a header if he keeps it shut.
I don't see the need for the inner header if in fact the trusses bear on the outside header.I assume from your description of what bears where that you have in fact looked at the situation in the attic space.
In regards to using the hanger, yes , just as long as the column/post/studs you hang from has adequate bearing beneath it all the way to the ground. (think load path)
Is the issue that the new door w/ sidelite is as big as that opening is now and you cant put jacks under the new header? It looks like you need a full header in there. For anything over 36" here we have to put two jacks under each side of the header so you need to factor that in too.
Im fairly certain simpson makes a hanger for that but how you fully attach it I dont know. I would put my jacks in tight to the hallway walls then get a door that will work, or put your own sidelite in. Good luck
It sure looks to me like you need one, trusses or not.
If I'm reading you right, the double 2x10 header is in line with the outside load bearing wall and is spanning about 55''. That seems more than adequate to support a normal roof load.
What size is the header over the door only? Is there any header over the side light? What does the framing between the door and the side light consist of?
It is my "GUESS" that the 2-2x10 header is carrying the load. I see no reason for the 2-2x10 header if the load was being carried by the header over the door. As previously stated, it would be good if you could take a look up in the attic and make sure what's going on.
What is your opposition to installing a standard header over the new combo door/side light unit? And no I don't see why you can't use a header hanger if you don't have the space for jack studs under the header.
You should add a new header spanning the whole opening. Possibly as it sits, the sidelight falls between two studs that support above. When you remove the king post between the door and light, you will remove the load path for the existing header.
Even if i'm wrong it only costs you (maybe) ten bucks, and a couple of hours. You will however not lose any sleep over it.
Family.....They're always there when they need you.
Thanks, everyone for all the advice. I will put in a new header over the whole door opening. I was checking with the experts because I wasn't sure. It's better to be safe than sorry.
Thanks again, George