We’re finishing off a loft space and need to install a railing. The ceiling under the loft is finished, so I don’t have access to the joists that way. Up in the loft is OSB subfloor. I can pull it up, if absolutely needed, but would prefer not to. However, I really do want to sink the posts into the floor. My question is this. Can I bolt the post to the rim joist on the loft edge? Post would be going through the subfloor in the loft, and sitting next to the inner edge of the rim joist. I can place the post next to a regular joist as well, but it wouldn’t be secured to the joist. Hope that makes sense.
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
From building boxes and fitting face frames to installing doors and drawers, these techniques could be used for lots of cabinet projects.
Featured Video
Highlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Fine Homebuilding Magazine
Fine Home Building
Follow
-
Fine Homebuilding
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial Now -
GBA Prime
Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now
- Home Group
- Antique Trader
- Arts & Crafts Homes
- Bank Note Reporter
- Cabin Life
- Cuisine at Home
- Fine Gardening
- Fine Woodworking
- Green Building Advisor
- Garden Gate
- Horticulture
- Keep Craft Alive
- Log Home Living
- Military Trader/Vehicles
- Numismatic News
- Numismaster
- Old Cars Weekly
- Old House Journal
- Period Homes
- Popular Woodworking
- Script
- ShopNotes
- Sports Collectors Digest
- Threads
- Timber Home Living
- Traditional Building
- Woodsmith
- World Coin News
- Writer's Digest
Replies
luna
What you are proposing is something I wouldn't do for pay, but would probably give consideration to at some point in my life...................
You can secure the newels to the rim, but how is the rim secured? That will be your weak point.
Think of the top end of the newel and all the rail secured to it in each direction, as the end of a 3+ foot pry bar. The force exerted on the top of the newel etc is much more that any force directed at the bottom of the newel which is fastened to the rim.
So, with that disclaimer-will what you propose fail catastrophically?
At the minimum-fastened to the joist side as well, would greatly increase its stability and the strength of the system.
Well, looks like I'll be pulling up some subfloor. Not the end of the world, though, and not the first time I've done it in this house (we added a bathroom up there, too.)
luna
To fine tune the layout, block between the joists (behind the post) and slide your post to center-then through bolt in place.
Just ordered the posts yesterday. They're 4 1/2" square box newels, with a solid 3 1/2" core. Quick question. What size bolt (diameter) should I use?
I was planning on notching the bottom of the post 1/2" to 3/4" on all sides, so that the finish floor sits underneath the post rather than butting up to it. That would leave 3" to 3 1/2" of post to be bolted. (Really don't want to use shoe unless I absolutely have to!)
luna
On a deck, you'd use 1/2". I don't think you'd have to in this case-3/8 or 5/16ths probably just fine.
They've been held with long drywall screws for years................16 finish down to 10 for years b/4 that. Dowells prior.
Structural screws have been my remedy for repair.
Your idea of rabbiting the post should cause no real problem either.