Replies

1. 
   Scott_Davis | Feb 05, 2000 07:18pm | #1

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   I learned to build masonry heaters in Austria during a 3
   year apprenticeship. There everybody builds brick homes.
   really cool bricks up to 20 inches deep and extruded
   horizontally with a honeycomb pattern to give it better
   insulating value, and reduce the weight. Anyway, I installed
   several windows in my in-laws old farmhouse, using the
   techniques gleaned from watching and questioning carpenters
   on the jobsite.

   If you are stuccoing this technique works well. If the
   masonry is to remain exposed, you may have to drill, plug,
   and screw the windows to the wall. First make sure that your
   rough opening is approx. one to one and a half inches larger
   than your window buck/frame, in bothe the horizontal and the
   vertical. Then place the window in the opening and shim it
   into plumb using overlapping shims from both sides, two on
   top, two on the bottom. Next, cut two braces from any 2 inch
   furring material. Cut one to the exact vertical dimension of
   the window opening, the other to the horizontal. They sould
   slide into the opening tight without bending the frame.

   Now you need to secure the window to the wall. The Astrians
   used an expandable faom called PU Foam. I do not know what
   the product names available in the U.S. are, but any sticky
   expandable foam the drys rigid should work. pipe that stuff
   into the gap between wall and window and let it dry. Once
   it is dry you can easily trim and excess foam with an
   utility knife. Unshim and stuff the holes with a little
   fiberglass insulation. Now set your sills, and stucco right
   up to the window fram, overlapping about 1/8 inch. Once the
   stucco has set, caulk the joint where it meets the window
   frame.

   The alternate, oldtimers method, is to fill the gap with
   mortar. Although I tend to be loyal to traditional methods
   of building, in this case I defer to modern materials. The
   mortar set windows become loose and need resetting wuch
   quicker than the foam set. This is due to the expansion and
   contraction of the wood frame. And if your windows are metal
   or vinal, I really don't have the experiance to know how
   they would hold up.

   Did I mention to remove the braces? Got to do that otherwise
   the window

2. 
   Worden | Feb 12, 2000 02:19pm | #2

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   I'm renovating an old masonry building with 20" thick walls. I want to set new casement windows in the existing openings 6" from the face of the building. In addition to running a bead of caulk between the window frame and masonry, what do I need to do to seal the windows?

3. 
   Guest_ | Feb 12, 2000 02:19pm | #3

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   I'm guessing, but I suspect the "PU" foam that Scott mentioned stands for polyurethane; which is the same stuff you buy in aerosol cans for $5 a piece. If you use this type of foam, don't fill up the void 100% because that foam will expand a great deal. If too much is sprayed, it could put too much pressure on the window frame and result in stuck window sashes. Spray it about 70 % full and let this dry and expand. If you need more foam , spray again.

   Another method of anchoring your windows to the masonry, especially if the windows are vinyl, is to measure your actual window openings and then order your windows accordingly, less 1-1/2 inches both in height and width overall. Build a wooden frame out of 3/4 inch stock to house your window. The window manufacturer automatically reduces the window size by 1/8 to 1/4 inch overall anyway; so this gives you plenty of room to play with when inserting frame into masonry opening. When you receive the windows, measure them and build a box for each one. The jamb depth of these boxes should be at least the same as the window frames, and can be a little deeper to allow for installing wooden stops on the exterior facing side. The viyl window should just fit into the box frame opening, not too tight, just snug. Build the frame about 3/16" bigger than the window itself.

   Once built, leave the vinyl window out, and install the wood frame into the existing masonry opening. Center the frame in the hole, and shim where needed. Make sure frame is square, level, and plumb. Drill through the frame into the masonry and secure frame with either masonry (tapcon) screws or use leaded type "hit anchors." (1/4 dia hit anchors work very well, but are permanent in nature and therefore hard to remove.) A small bead of the spray foam between wood frame and masonry is good to use here, but fiberglass insulation is also OK. Finish with a bead of silicone caulk.

   Now insert window into wood frame and secure window to wood with appropiate screws. If able to, wrap window with fiberglass insulation before inserting into frame; or stuff insulation where needed after installed in frame. Bead of silicone around perimeter of frame is not a bad idea here.

   You can finish exterior of frame by painting or (preferred) wraping with aluminum trim coil stock in color of your choice. Interior side of frame can be stained or painted to suit. If you wanted the interior to have a "walled in" look with wood, you could build the box out of 3/4 plywood and extend the box depth to 14". Then nail on the finished wood overtop the plywood when trimming out for the desired look.

   Good luck on your project.

   Davo