Hello all! I am designing a new construction house with a 10′-0 ceiling height on two levels.
The house has a parapet (flat TPO) roof.
My windows and some exterior doors will be floor to ceiling so the the rim joist between floors and at roof, need to become headers. Which means NO double plate. I have seen this design quite a bit in our area, but I can’t figure out how to frame it. Even has my engineer scratching his head on how to strap horizontally.
Any ideas?
From building boxes and fitting face frames to installing doors and drawers, these techniques could be used for lots of cabinet projects.
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Replies
Two thoughts come to mind:
1. Provide more detail on what your question is about. Framing is not as generic as you may think.
2. Find a qualified engineer... or designer. Since you're the latter, the former may be chronic problem.
Thanks Catmandeux, so simple but so not clear in my head. I kept wanting to run the header long., but this makes sense. We'll see what the engineer says.
This engineer is a little sleepy compared to others I have used, but I am knee deep, so crossing every T on my reviews.
deadnuts, not sure you should have even commented. I wouldn't say framing is "generic", but I would say plates, stud walls and headers fall into the "typical" catagory unless asking to be built differently than what is code, which I am asking -by violating the top plate, and inspectors don't like that. I struggled with posting a questions with way too much wording, and tried to get to the point. You get a thumbs down.
ps..I don't replace engineers or contractors when a question or problem needs to be solved unless there are major issues. This is not a major issue - just getting some professional clarity.
This is my first time posting in the Forum. Thank you for your quick response.
Make the rim joist continuous...
Could you make the combination rim joist/header continous - no joints...like long double LVL or microlams?... If they're continuous, the openings could come at any location in the wall. The plywood sheathing going around the openings along with some metal strapping and hold-downs should do the trick. This member should work to drag the lateral loads from one shear wall to another.. It would be like the shear walls each side of a garage door.. You might have some tricky connections if window opening on one floor aligns with another on the floor above - almost cuts the building in half... A good engineer should have no trouble figuring a method to work...keep in mind you are asking him to take the risk for the design - you should expect a bit of 'over design' and maybe some interior walls will need to become shear walls to help with the lateral loads (wind, earthquake, etc)
Thats what I was thinking
Thanks wmheinz. I was thinking the same thing. Especially since one of my windows is 14' wide, floor to ceiling. I provided a typical architectural plan set, but I fully expect him to over engineer it. We are in Northern California. I am just one of those people that likes to completely understand what is being built on paper so there are no surprises in the field. Of course my first meeting after I get my engineering back is with my Contractor to be sure he is happy - or has alternate ideas or issues. Thanks for you comment!