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I am planning to install hardwood flooring in a hallway that leads to a new addition. To keep the level between the hall and the addition I will need to remove a layer of the existing sub floor. It currently has ¾ inch plywood on top of ¾ inch boards that are on top of joists that are 16 in O.C. The plywood runs under some of the wall framing for the second floor walls. How can I cut the plywood flush with the walls so I can cover the expansion joint for the hardwood floor with a normal size molding?????
Thanks – Paul
Replies
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Paul--careful work with a sawzall or small angle grinder with a chainsaw carving blade. Sawzall is the safer technique. A long floppy blade will let you get the angle you need.
*Paul - Bosch has a handy flush cut saw on the market. You may want to check Toolcrib for a description.It runs around $109, and is called the Bosch 1640VS Finecut Power Handsaw.I haven't had an opportunity to buy one and try it, but it sure looks like it'll come in handy...Good Luck, Michael
*I agree about the sawzall but caution you to make sure you don't cut the joists or the sub sub floor! You won't be able to tell you are there until it is too late. One trick is to cut your sawzall blade so that when extended it extends a tad past 3/4 inch. Use a tin snips. This way, you will cut the plywood only. The down side is that kickback is very possible. Be careful and have a few extra blades on hand.Another method is to mark the joist locations and cut shy of them. The downside tothis is that you have to plunge cut or drill a lot of starter holes. Finish up with a handsaw or the sawzall held at a very low (almost flat) angle.
*Hi,Use a fostner bit to drill check your depth at several locations along the wall. However, I'm sure you'll have no trouble maintaining the right depth of cut with a saber-saw. good luck.
*I really wouldn't worry about cutting the floor joists a little (1/8" to 1/4"); as long as the cuts are at the base of the wall there won't be any structural issues.
*When Mike Maines suggested a sawzall with a long blade, he did not intend that you use it vertically, but at a low angle so that the end of the blade just cuts through the 3/4 subfloor.You won't cut more than about 1/8th" into the joists if you are a little careful. Don't try cutting off the blade as someone suggested-it will be nothing but 1 kickback after another, and you will not be able to cut the subfloor off flush with the wall that way anyhow due to the width of the saw shoe.
*Paul,I had a similar situation when I did my kitchen. I tried my sawzall, as suggested, but for me it didn't work very well. I couldn't get close enough to the wall and the ragged cut irritated me. I'ld rent a flush cutting saw. The other thing I'ld suggest is to cut out the diaganol 1xs and replace with t&g. You'll get less chance for squeaks that way. IMHO.John
*I have a cheap yard sale circular saw that I used to help divide a 10x20 foot kitchen worth of 5/8 plywood underlayment into managable pieces. I set my blade depth just a hair shallow, and didn't even nick the 1 by diagonal planks. Fast and easy, though a bit messy.Eric Wallgren
*Probably a little late, but you can rent a flush-cutting circular saw. Flooring installers use them to undercut jambs.Andy
*Hi Melanie.
*I have used an electric chain saw as choice. You can get the corners and you will have a visual of what you are cutting. Have an extra chain or two on hand as nails eat them. Its really the fastest way as nothing else I've tried gets the corners as fast and Im standing up doing the work. It will also reach under the dry wall if done on an angle. Pull off the base on cabinets and do the angle carefully as it can make a mess. just as you would have to with a sawsall. A flush cutting saw wont do any of this,but straight walls, and it wont saw under the wall board.Sawsall is very slow,and hard work. Chain saw is easy. I would like to try the carving bit on the angle grinder,but I thought that it has been declared unsafe???????
*turn your sawzall blade upside down for this kind of cut, it allows the blade to travel at a lower angle, which is what you want. It won't be hard as long as you let the saw do the sawing...just picked up a Fien multimaster (blessings to all at Fien) that would do this, but slower than a recipro.