A previous owner gutted the second floor of our 1830s cape and used particle board for the walls. After that, he wallpapered it—we removed the paper and now are looking at particle board walls.
We’d like to cover the particle board with structolite. Nash’s Old House book says that structolite can give us a rough look that somewhat mimics an old plaster wall.
The helpline at US Gypsum says that we can’t apply structolite to particle board, and this was echoed by a local building supply person. The gist of both conversations is that the wood and the moisture of the structolite won’t work together. On the other hand, the US Gypsum guy was also saying no to Structolite even on sheetrock, so we’re somewhat dubious of his advice.
We’d appreciate any thoughts on this. Has anyone out there put structolite on particle board? Does it seem doable? Are there any alternatives? Painting particle board doesn’t work for us—you can still see that it’s PB. Also we were told that when they put the PB up they put the wrong side out—the one with more glue on it—are there two distinct sides to particle board? Thanks very much for your thoughts on this.
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pull the PB and then do things right..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
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why do I suspect the "particle board" is OSB?That's the only Idea as far as 2 sides..PB is the same either face, OSB has 2 distinct faces...But, yer right either way...remove it.
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OSB is funny looking PB..
proud member of the FOR/FOS club...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
If you don't want the mess of ripping out the partical board, just tack up 15lb felt, make sure it's totally covered, then mesh it with raised stucco lath (wire mesh) and plaster on the structolite two coats. Don't let the structo plaster touch the partical board.
It really won't take all that long to remove the particle board, as luck has it just today I removed 1/2 ply that someone had put up over the studs in some old renovation. Pulled all of it down (walls and cieling) throughout a medium-sized 3 bedroom in about 5 hours, with a flat bar and hammer. (Whoever put the stuff up was nail crazy- 8d nails spaced 4 inches apart)
her luck says that somebody used an old Senco M2 and a case of staples per sheet...
proud member of the FOR/FOS club...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
remove it or laminate it with 1/4" rock
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USG is right.
You can't put basecoat plaster (Structolite is a brand) over particleboard.
This is because the particleboard will swell and cause the plaster to crack. The basecoat has a ton of water in it. If you don't believe, try it yourself in a small area. The idea mentioned about the felt paper might work. Maybe. How thick is the particleboard ?
You can't put basecoat plaster over drywall.
Basecoat plaster will not bond properly to the face paper. It is designed to be installed over rocklath or wire lath.
What look do you want ? Sand finish ? I am pretty sure you don't want the look of the leveling coat of plaster. Once the base plaster is done, the finish goes on and can be sanded for the look you desire.
Who is going to do all of this plastering ? Around here in PA, drywall installed and finished is around $1.50 per sq. ft. Rocklath and plaster is about $6.00 per sq.ft. At $6.00 psf, only Donald Trump can afford it.
Skimcoat plaster is an option. You can get a sanded finish. It means hanging blueboard drywall. Maybe $3.00-$3.50 psf.
If the budget is tight, standard drywall with sand finish paint could be the way.
Whatever you do, I concur that removing the particle is a good idea. Attaching drywall with it on could be a royal pain as the screws will not hold to it. Is there insulation behind it ?
carpenter in transition
As a plasterer, I would recommend putting up 3/8" bluebord (plasterbase) them coatiing it with USG Imperial Veneer Basecoat Plaster. It has sand in it for that rough look, and it is designed to go over blue board.
Sam