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How-To

2 Methods for Patching a Hardwood Floor

Learn professional techniques for evaluating damaged flooring, removing individual boards, and installing seamless repair patches.

By Brent Kelosky Issue 286 - Oct/Nov 2019

Synopsis: Brent Kelosky, a wood flooring specialist, describes two ways to replace a damaged section of hardwood floor. If the damage is through the entire board, the fix requires removing the damaged piece down to the subfloor with a router; if the board is not damaged all the way through, it’s possible to use a template to remove the top layer and install a replacement cap. In either case, Kelosky explains how to remove the damaged section and install the replacement piece to hide the repair as completely as possible.


My father started our family business, Wood Floor Designs, more than three decades ago. I’ve helped him manage it for the past 26 years. In that time, we’ve completed hundreds of floor patches. The hardest part of any patch job is finding a replacement board to match the floor—it needs to be the same species and equal in size, thickness, and grain. There are times when you can hide a repair completely, and other times when it might be more visible, but it need not stand out like a sore thumb. No matter the wood (here we’re working with plain-sawn red oak), we use one of two repair – one requires a circular saw, and the other a router. The choice depends on how deep the damage goes.

Remove the board down the subfloor

If you know there’s rot, it’s best to cut out the section of board in its entirety down to the substrate. Termite damage and holes are also good reasons to remove the entire piece. You want to install boards as flush as possible, even if you are going to sand, but it’s better if the new board is a little proud than if it sinks below the surrounding boards. If the floor has been finished already, you will need to spend extra time ensuring the thickness of the new board is an exact match, and set it with precision.

oscillating multitool making cuts
Mark the repair. If it’s a long board, mark the section being replaced with a square. Use an oscillating multitool to make the first two cuts at both ends of the damaged area.
circular saw making two cuts down the length of a board
Make three cuts. With a circular saw set to 3⁄4 in., make two cuts down the length of the board and one at an angle across (an “N” shape). This releases pressure and makes removing the pieces easier. Be sure to make the first cut to the inside of any nails, then move over an inch and make the second lengthwise cut.
a chisel extending lengthwise cuts
Remove the damage. Use a chisel or oscillating multitool to extend the lengthwise cuts to the ends to free the center strips, and remove them; the groove side should come out easily. Use a hammer and chisel to chip away the tongue side, and use a cat’s paw to remove any nails.
removing the tongue of the cut board
Pry the tongue. Remove the tongue of the cut board from the groove on the adjacent board.

Install the new board

ripping the back of a groove with the claw of a hammer
Modify the groove. In order to tip the tongue-and-groove replacement board into place—tongue-side first—rip the back of the groove with the claw of a hammer to make a rabbeted joint.
using a utility knife to mark the cut
Mark, cut, check. Use a utility knife to mark the cut on the replacement board. Cut it to size and dry-fit, laying dental floss or a piece of paper down first to make it easy to remove.
applying adhesive
Anchor the board. Apply adhesive (we use Bona, but Liquid Nails or yellow glue work too) to the tongue and groove of the adjacent boards, and slide the replacement piece into place. Do not glue directly to the subfloor.
tamping with a rubber mallet
Tamp it in. With a rubber mallet, gently tamp the new board in place. Weight the new board until the adhesive sets up.
sanding patch into plane
Finish it off. If the patch stands slightly proud, sand it into plane. We use an edger, which is more aggressive than an orbital sander.

Another approach: Take the top off

If the board is not damaged all the way through, another repair option is to use a router to remove the top wear layer. With this method, the original plank stays anchored to the floor and substrate, and gets a shallow mortise to receive a replacement cap. This approach calls for a 1⁄4-in.-thick piece—resawn or planed down from a full-thickness board. If you use this method with prefinished flooring, you won’t be able to sand, so the depth of the mortise and thickness of the patch have to match precisely.

nail plywood template over area
Set a guide. Nail a 3⁄4-in. plywood template over the area so the router bit and bearing ride on the template without hitting adjacent boards. If the floor is already finished, either tack the template between board seams or use double-sided tape to hold it down. Do a test to make sure the tape won’t mar the floor.
use a router to remove top of board surface
Go slow. Use a router to remove the top one-third of the board surface in 1⁄16-in. increments. Rout down to just above where the tongue and nails sit.
remove template and clean corners with a chisel
Check the match. Remove the template, clean up the corners with a chisel, and do a dry fit, gently tapping the replacement piece into place to ensure it is reasonably flush. For final installation, lay in the adhesive, tap the board into place with a rubber mallet, weight it until the glue sets, and then sand if needed.

Photos by Patrick McCombe.

From Fine Homebuilding #286

To view the entire article, please click the View PDF button below.

More about hardwood flooring:

How to Replace a Floorboard

Refinish Your Wood Floors – Uncover the beauty in old hardwood flooring with a little patience and some great professional advice.

Mesquite Hardwood Floor Install – Tips & tricks from a wood geek.

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