How-To

2 Methods for Patching a Hardwood Floor

Learn professional techniques for evaluating damaged flooring, removing individual boards, and installing seamless repair patches.

By Brent Kelosky Issue 286 - Oct/Nov 2019

Synopsis: Brent Kelosky, a wood flooring specialist, describes two ways to replace a damaged section of hardwood floor. If the damage is through the entire board, the fix requires removing the damaged piece down to the subfloor with a router; if the board is not damaged all the way through, it’s possible to use a template to remove the top layer and install a replacement cap. In either case, Kelosky explains how to remove the damaged section and install the replacement piece to hide the repair as completely as possible.

My father started our family business, Wood Floor Designs, more than three decades ago. I’ve helped him manage it for the past 26 years. In that time, we’ve completed hundreds of floor patches. The hardest part of any patch job is finding a replacement board to match the floor—it needs to be the same species and equal in size, thickness, and grain. There are times when you can hide a repair completely, and other times when it might be more visible, but it need not stand out like a sore thumb. No matter the wood (here we’re working with plain-sawn red oak), we use one of two repair – one requires a circular saw, and the other a router. The choice depends on how deep the damage goes.

Remove the board down the subfloor

If you know there’s rot, it’s best to cut out the section of board in its entirety down to the substrate. Termite damage and holes are also good reasons to remove the entire piece. You want to install boards as flush as possible, even if you are going to sand, but it’s better if the new board is a little proud than if it sinks below the surrounding boards. If the floor has been finished already, you will need to spend extra time ensuring the thickness of the new board is an exact match, and set it with precision.