Our modular home sustained water damage from wind driven rain. The eves on the front were not finished nor was the gable end wrapped or sided yet. The walls are 2×6 w/ drywall,plastic barrier (glued on),fiberglass batts,sheathing,1″ foam,and vinyl siding.
Since the storm almost 3 weeks ago our contractor has done nothing to address the damage.He is saying that it is “accepted practice”to let the walls dry undisturbed.He has not revealed the extent of the damage or how he will fix it.
I have removed sections of the wall ;(two weeks after the storm); myself at floor level and have discovered wet to saturated insulation in the walls. We think he should at the very least remove the lower part of the drywall and run fans to speed drying, and would prefer he strip the walls and replace the insulation.
We live in the Northeast. Is this a “acceptable Practice on his part or is he trying to save a buck? I would appreciate feedback from everybody so I can dazzle him with my new found knowledge.HA
Edited 5/4/2007 3:22 pm ET by bulwinkle
Edited 5/4/2007 3:23 pm ET by bulwinkle
Replies
With saturated insulation, you will have moild eating the house before it ever dries. It needs to be openned up.
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The contractor is trying to save a buck. Hire somebody else who is willing to do it right.
Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Remodelerator
I would not suggest a total drop and run strategy yet. This contractor will need to make use of his liability insurance possibly. Documentation time.
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oops, you're right, I didn't read the first sentence carefully enough. don't ditch the contractor, take lots of pictures and start nipping at his heels.
bottom line: it's certainly not accepted practice. Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Remodelerator
Would opening the wall and drying with fans be OK?Or should we insist replacment where the insulation is saturated?
If it is Kraft faced Insul, you bet you want it OUT.
Prior to me getting my house the washer had been yanked out and it flooded the room. I removed all drywall, and insul , and used a garden sprayer with bleach to get rid of the mold, as anal as I was, I still notice some black blotches around that area, which we promptly re-treat...
Don't mess around, do it right.Parolee # 40835
They are unfaced batts. In a wall w/plastic on one side and sheathing and foam on the other.
"They are unfaced batts. In a wall w/plastic on one side and sheathing and foam on the other."No place for the wall to dry out. It ain't going do anything but ge MUCH WORSE..
.
A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Well, mold can't eat plastic VB, so I guess ya could leave the FG, but I'd still spray it all with bleach.Parolee # 40835
ir can eat the studs and plates tho
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Where the batts are soaked, you have to replace it. Lying out in the sun with a wind blowing over it would take a week to dry thorougghly but trapped in a wall it would take a year and mold would be well developed by then.I'm also concerned about yopur description of the wall space. A wall should never have VB on both sides, specificly because it traps water. Some foams are a VB. What sort of foam board do you have there? Is the contractor the sales agent for the modhome company too making a profit as their rep or did you [purchase the home direct and hire him separately to set it up?
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Contractor was agent for Company out of Canada. The home is well built and except for the water damage its been an OK experiance. He just keeps putting repairs off and isn't keeping us informed on his plans. Frustating!!
E-mail me if you want Click my name above and select that optionI'm out on Islesboro
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Oh yeah! Owens Corning Pink
The affected area needs to have the drywall, VB, insulation removed, the wall cavity cleaned/disinfected, and new drywall, vapor barrier, and insulation installed, time the for the GC to call his insurance rep. ....He does have ins. doesn't he?? You possibly could have a problem with electrical, if there was as much water as you seem to indicate, mostly in the area of water having gotten into the outlet/switch boxes. I believe any electrical outlet or switch that was "soaked" would probably have to be replaced.
As far as his "acceptable practice" excuse, it's just that, an excsue! maybe a visit from the building inspector(or at least the threat of a visit) might motivate him to do the right thing. You might even broach the subject with the BI, anonymously, to get his feel fo the situation.
Where in the NE are you located?
Geoff
Mid Coast Maine....I do miss my WYO mountains though!!
Welcome to New England!
We do have mts. here.....they just tend to be a little more "well worn" than you're use to!! :)
Geoff
Ya I know what you mean about worn. a lot of buildings are almost as old as the state of Wyo. You gotta love it!
The insulation won't dry
Not sure what to recommend but some time ago we had a similar Q and some guy who used to work for a flood damage co told us about some kind of super dehumidifier - although it was totally different than a dehumidifier. Maybe called a Desiccant? Maybe you or your contractor can rent one? I have no idea of how much it might help, but it's got to be better than doing nothing.
Really though my experience is that once drywall, etc gets saturated and is not immediately dried, it is toast and grows mold.
Here is another idea - did the contractor provide you with a certificate of insurance? If so, maybe you could contact his insurance co?
I am guessing that the company can apply a little pressure from their end since they recommended him.
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