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deck to log…waterproof transition?

townail | Posted in General Discussion on September 5, 2009 09:20am

I’m looking to create a waterproof connection between a deck and log structure. The deck currently has a built up edge or “curb”…… a piece of 2X2 cant adjacent to the log with no seal/gaps … there’s got to be a better way!!

Further complicating this, the log structure is way out of level and the deck is somewhat level (separate footings/piers)…so the connection point varies along the length of the log. The deck also goes around the outside lapped corner of the logs

The new deck will be covered with vinyl membrane and I had envisioned some kind of custom flashing, but thought maybe there are other ways…any thoughts or suggestions. The picture shows the area/transition (it is a pic of a previous deck we built ..not the one above)

Thanks

TN

 

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Replies

  1. theslateman | Sep 06, 2009 01:11am | #1

    I'd run the membrane up the lowest log , then counterflash with lead flashing roll tucked into the joint between the logs .

  2. danno7x | Sep 06, 2009 02:08am | #2

    Free standing!  Dont connect it to the house at all.  Way better in the long run and solves your issues. 

    1. User avater
      Beachton | Sep 06, 2009 03:14am | #3

      I second that. Don't attach it. It's going to look funny with the line of the log not being level. Try making a problem into a design feature and put the deck far enough away it needs handrails even on the house side. Make a little ramp to the door. Putting it a couple of feet away from the house solves the issue with it going around the corner too.But if there's an existing deck that already ruined things then nevermind!

    2. Piffin | Sep 06, 2009 01:40pm | #4

      did you look at t he photo?It appears there is some sort of living space in under there that has reason to keep this water proofed.I'd run up to the log joint like Walter said. probably use a larger cant at the ankle 

       

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      1. danno7x | Sep 06, 2009 03:17pm | #5

        did you look at t he photo?

        Yes I did, and I read his post too.

        The new deck will be covered with vinyl membrane and I had envisioned some kind of custom flashing, but thought maybe there are other ways...any thoughts or suggestions. The picture shows the area/transition (it is a pic of a previous deck we built ..not the one above)

        It wasnt very clear to me that there was a living space under it, if thats the case then it wasnt really stated just says something about " vinyl membrane".  He clearly states that the picture is not the situation in question. 

        I had the same idea as walter run the membrane up to the first log joint, but it was already stated.  Thought I would just throw the freestanding idea out since the details were a little sketchy.  Seems to be lots of people that think you cant build a deck without attaching it to the house. 

        1. Piffin | Sep 06, 2009 03:22pm | #6

          "(it is a pic of a previous deck we built ..not the one above)"I did miss that part, but using the terms waterproof, and vinyl material, left me pretty sure it needed to be attached. 

           

          Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          1. townail | Sep 06, 2009 05:05pm | #7

            Piffin, Danno et al...

            Sorry I neglected to ad the reasoning behind the waterproof connection and why...

            This is a redo of an existing deck, portions of which currently are open to below, some covered with roll-on deckcoat and part of this serves as a roof over the mechanical room and pool pump room.

            The current deck was an add-on to the log structure (c. 1930's) many years ago to accommodate the pool services, HWT, furnace etc as these were added when the building was reclaimed. This why they are on separate foundations. The "out of level" part is the original logs on a sunken corner pier.

            The connection was never well detailed originally, however I need to correct this during the reconstruction. While it is not really living space below and the leakage between the structures has been minimized due to the overhang above, it is not ideal. The lead flashing route is a possibility, but while functional, may not look that great...further thoughts???

            TN

          2. User avater
            Beachton | Sep 06, 2009 11:18pm | #8

            I'm still confused. Are you sure it wouldn't be better in the long run to just enclose the mechanical stuff independent of the deck and then build a free standing deck? That way the house can continue to settle without ruining your deck attachment point.

          3. Piffin | Sep 07, 2009 01:32am | #9

            A part of the problem is that the less bad looking this is, the more likely it is to leak to some degree at least.
            One option might be an EPDM roof with a termination bar on the log. The flexibility of this membrane would have some advantages here. Personally I still think the termination should go to the chink joint anyways.A real photo or two of the actuall might be helpful to inspire more thoughts. 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

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