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We use modified thinset mortar to set tubs and showers. Just enough to sqeeze down under the bearing points and sometimes the front edge or apron.If the unit moves just a little when it is being leveled up the thinset seems to draw up with it(capillary action) and still supportsit. Also we use thinset underneith pre-hung door sills to eliminate that hollow feeling. Try it sometime.
later,
JOHNSON
Add a strap for easy carrying and pouring when working with 5-gal. buckets.
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Replies
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Hey George:
Sorry for the delay. For exterior, pre-hung doors, first dry fit the unit into the opening just to make sure that it's gonna go. Next, spread a 1/4" bed of fairly loose thinset and tip your door in place, trying not to push all of your mud out from under the sill. Proceed to hang your door as usual. The mud fills any voids under the sill. Clean up with water. Flexible, modified thinset works best, I think because of the adhesion properties. Works better than wood shims.
Johnny
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recently one of the subs pulled out drywall mud to skim over a vinyl floor to level it out before installing new sheet vinyl. He says it is almost the same thing as fix all but smoother texture, just takes longer to dry.
Any comments or ideas on that ?
*Bad idea....Drywall mud is not a proper floor leveler. Floor levelers are designed specifically for use in this application. They chemically cure to form a very hard surface that will adhere properly to a myriad of surfaces. Drywall mud is designed for use on wallboard. Do not try to use the drywall mud for a purpose it was not intended for. You will regret the results later down the road.Many pros have tried this shortcut (cheaper too) and have been called back to repair the bulge in the floor, or the indentation that resulted when the drywall mud crumbled.If this is your home, make them do it right. If you are a contractor, and this is your sub, tell him to use the proper material.James
*Was it durabond dry mud that's mixed with water or mud in a tub?...Mud in a tub would be a real disaster as it turns back to mud with water besides the crumble affect mentioned above...the durabond is wrong too but it at least sets due to chemical curing...the floor supply houses carry the right stuff...mixes with water and is inexpensive.near the bondo stream,aj
*I recently went to a contrator's "yard sale" and got to talking to the guy, got a tour of his very nice straw bale house. But then he told me the best way to install an acrylic shower or tub was to dump a box of drywall mud under it to firm up the floor. Seemed like something a blonde girl would do...
*Splinter,I don't see gypsum mud as having enough stability for that, either ...We DO put plaster-of-Paris under fiberglass tub/shower enclosures - molds to the shapes and supports the flex of the bottom, cures fast and hard.You gotta remember that that area Better NOT be getting wet, anyway.Geo.
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*We use modified thinset mortar to set tubs and showers. Just enough to sqeeze down under the bearing points and sometimes the front edge or apron.If the unit moves just a little when it is being leveled up the thinset seems to draw up with it(capillary action) and still supportsit. Also we use thinset underneith pre-hung door sills to eliminate that hollow feeling. Try it sometime. later, JOHNSON
*Johnson,>>Also we use thinset underneith pre-hung door sills to eliminate that hollow feeling. Try it sometime.<<Sounds like a neat idea - can you run it past me one more time? Brain's a little slow this morning. 1/8" thinset under sill, or packed full w/ modified mortar?George
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Drywall mud is a non-starter, but I can see that the discussion has digressed to other techniques for leveling tubs and pre-fab showers. The easiest, and fastest way to set your tubs and showers is to buy a 50 lb bag of self-leveling compound, mix it and pour it under the tub. Sets in 4 hours. Make sure all cutouts are sealed with urethane foam and box in your plumbing drain with wood before you do this. For showers, I do the same. Once the stall is set against the wall and the drain is connected and sealed, caulk along the floor and pour it through the studs from an adjoining room, if possible. No gaps, no voids, rock solid.