I’m going absolutely nuts trying to figure out what the issue is with some Seagull Lighting puck lights!!
It’s a low voltage set-up with six 18w pucklights that connect to fused plugs that then connect to a wire (little metal points pierce the wire’s insulation) that connects to a 150w transformer.
Initially the lights worked, though a few were flickering, so I adjusted the connection on the fused plugs. Then while messing with one of the plugs, all of the lights went out, which I assumed was due to the fuses blowing in the fused plugs. $50 in new plugs later, the lights still aren’t working and the all of the bulbs are fine, so I’m guessing it must be something with the transformer… Power to the transformer is fine and guessing since it’s low voltage and my tester isn’t sensitive enough, I’m not able to tell whether the lights are getting any power.
Does anybody have any experience with these and any guesses on what the problem might be?? Way too finicky!
Thanks –
Grant
Replies
"it's low voltage and my tester isn't sensitive enough, I'm not able to tell whether the lights are getting any power."
what kind of "tester"?
the proximity dectors (tic testers) only work on higher voltage circuit and with one side (neutral) grounded.
Nor will the test lights designed for 120.
but a voltmeter does work.
and you can get test lights at auto stores for 12 volts.
.
A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Bad connections are a common problem with LV lighting.
The transformer may be blown. You need a voltmeter to check the output of the transformer.
Also, many transformers have an overcurrent device in them to prevent damage. I caused an IKEA power source to quit one time, when trying to use it for the wrong application (On purpose, thought it might fail). Took it appart, found a fusible link inside.
I think that those lights are wired in series, like Christmas lights. If one light doesn't work, none of them do. I'll bet the little metal tooth that pierces the insulation is bent, and you aren't making metal to metal contact.
"I think that those lights are wired in series,"why would you think that.It has a transformer..
.
A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Don't do low voltage, that's why.
My Christmas lights use a transformer too. It sits on a big pole in my front yard and feeds the outlet that I plug them in to.
Take the lights back to where you got them, and get new ones.
Edited 8/21/2008 9:55 pm ET by arcflash
I called the manufacturer's support line and they're thinking it cause a short when I stripped some of the wire insulation after the attached connector broke off. Haven't tried it yet, but they're saying to cut the wire clean without stipping any insulation and then seat the connectors to pierce the insulation. Not totally getting why exposing additional wire would cause a short, fingers crossed that they're right--damn lights cost around $500...
Yeah, mostly the connections they use are "self-piercing". Works about half the time.
Too much sanity may be madness. And maddest of all, to see life as it is and not as it should be! --Miguel de Cervantes
That was funny. Thanks. I needed a good laugh.