I dropped an oak tree recently and I have some logs (about 20″ diameter) that I want to make into rustic end tables. I was thinking of skinning the bark and cutting the top and bottom level, then sealing with something and using like that.
Any suggestions for finish, sealant, etc? Do I let them dry a bit before treating, do I seal them before they get too dry, can I use stain on them?
Any suggestions welcome, and thanks.
Jim
From building boxes and fitting face frames to installing doors and drawers, these techniques could be used for lots of cabinet projects.
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Replies
If you definition of rustic is all checked and cracked, go for it.
I'd let it dry a year or three before finish planing and sealing w/shellac and spray with Nitro lacquer.
But in reality, I'd actully not even consider it, they'll about explode without accurate drying conditions, I.E. a Steam injected kiln to moderate the case hardening of a dry kiln. Air drying is way slow, and prone to huge losses from radial checking in oak.
Standing dead wood may be a doable thing, but if it is green now, it will be interesting at least.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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Is it red oak? Not very good for outdoor furniture.
It is actually for indoor furniture. While exploding would be entertaining, it is not a trait I look for in furniture.
If I put a metal band around it in a couple places with bolts or something, would that prevent the "exploding" upon drying out?
Enyone ever do anythign like this? Thanks for your responses.
westmich
Any wood dried carelessly as in putting inside a house will do will need to crack.. Wood dries from the outside in. When it dries it shrinks. that's what causes those cracks (also called checks if they don't extend to an outside surface)
The safest and easiest way to deal with this is to air dry them. (unless you want to spend a great deal of time learning how to force dry (kiln) things) Even that is fraught with potential problems. I'll highlite some (but not all, ask if you'd like full details)
. Depending on where you live the rule of thumb IS ONE INCH OF THICKNESS WILL DRY PER YEAR. That does not mean dry enough to make furniture with but dry enough for your intents. It is far from liner also.. 2 years doesn't dry 2 inches it's more like 2 1/4 or 2 1/2 years. 3 inches takes nearly 4 years etc..
You will have to deal with cupping and warping issues as well, Most effective is some spacers sticks and several layers of wood weighted or strapped together.
Then you'll need to keep rain off and sun from drying too quickly.. Plus end grain needs to be sealed or the wood will split on you..
Despite all the naysayers, I say go for it. What do you have to lose? Sure it will check, big deal.
I would seal the endgrain with a wax based sealer.
jesse,
Most of those aren't neigh sayers.. they are simply warning of some of the pitfalls and potential problems ahead.
I built my whole house from green wood. (go to 85891.1& 94941.1 for some pictures) So I know what I'm speaking about.. Reread what I said,, I didn't tell him not to.. I warned him of pitfalls.
It would be wrong for us to say go for it and he does without proper information and the end result is less than decent.. all that wasted effort!
If he didn't want to know, he wouldn't have asked..
ya - go for it - you got nothing to lose - heavy end tables tho - (this is sections of log stood on end, right?)
they will want to split as they dry - if you seal the ends, the checking will probably not be bad -
were I to do it, I would consider kerfing the hunk along the long axis - consider this a controlled split - if the tables are going to be against a wall or have one side hidden this wouldn't show much and would keep the rest of the hunk sound -
Doud beat me to it--kerf halfway through the log, along its length. That's how Japanese temple builders treat the posts they build and repair centuries-old structures with. You'll still get plenty of checking but as long as the kerf goes close to the center of the log it should work for you.
Put sealer on the end grain immediately to slow excessive drying at the ends. The rest of it can be sealed now or later. Just use something that will allow the moisture to migrate out and will accomodate the log shrinking. Boiled linseed oil, tung oil, mineral oil, or Watco would all work and you can apply additional coats over time.
For any of the above finishes except the mineral oil you can topcoat with a tougher finish once the log is dry.
Edited 4/18/2008 12:01 pm ET by Mike_Maines
Cracking has already been discussed.
Here is osme actual case history, albiet on Doug Fir.
Have 14 ea 16 in dia to 28 in dia DF logs as beams for the 2nd floor in house. Felled off own land, air dried for a whole year.
It ws about 5 (FIVE) years before we stopped hearing an occasional "pop" as another beam developed a split. Chain saw kerf down one side eliminates some, but not all.
junkhound
Nasty as those late night cracks sound they don't weaken the beam at all according to lots of data.
I air dried my white oak /black walnut timbers almost 4 years before I put them up and only the timbers I hadn't air dried (because I miscounted or designed wrong) developed any real checking.
That in spite of virtually all of my timbers being heart centers.
These are great replies, thanks. If I understand what I have read, I think I will do this: remove the bark, cut top and bottom to level, take my chainsaw and cut a line from top to bottom almost to the center of the log, seal top and bottom ends with a wax sealer or other sealant that allows for moisture to travel out.
Yep, these will be heavy end tables--I cannot come close to lifting one with the current level of moisture in them. I look forward to the cracks they will develop over the next few years. I don't have any use I can think of for the trees I had to drop for the house construction other than the fire pit, so I thought I would try something that will keep the trees "alive" so to speak.
That's a good plan. Just don't use a wax sealer on the ends unless you plan to re-cut the ends later. Other finishes won't stick over the wax.
Excellent tip, thanks!
Dunno for sure what you have in mind. It now sounds as though you're going to take a section of 20" log and use it for a table. If that's the case it's ok but I wouldn't want to wait for it to dry. Maybe 20 years or so. I would caution that it should be off the floor an inch or two lest it rot the carpet or the hardwood floor because of it's dampness.If you wanted to dry a disc of say 2"s, you can do it successfully, but it's a labor of love, by purchasing a few gallons of ethelyne glycol and very carefully follow these directions.#1 Cut off a green disc and place it directly into a clear plastic bag. #2 Open the bag and put in a quart of the EG.#3 Every once in a while open the bag and exchange the air. Let out the damp air and let it replace with dry air. Add more EG if needed. Gradually the moisture in the wood will be replaced with EG without any shrinkage at all. My no brother-good-in-law did this to a piece of walnut and it was perfect. You can purchase the glycol from purveyors of wood turning supplies. They can probably give you better directions than I can because they use it in their trade. LOL
Thanks, Mesic. I am looking to do the whole 20" log. I thought it would make a cool end table, skinned and stained. Sounds like it's not that simple--I'll keep looking for ways to make it work, which might mean going another direction.
really, it is that simple - we just have a way to make it complicated - cut those suckers off, skin 'em, set them in position - they'll do what they do - but I guarentee they'll hold the remote control - try not to kick them in the dark...."there's enough for everyone"
westmich
Your last idea sounds very doable.. What I would do is put four ball "feet" on the bottom and not seal that area at all! Then I'd put a good deep durable finish on the rest of it and that way the moisture will come out the bottom checks and cracks would come out that way as well..
Or! I'd screw a base and top on the log and use it as the pedistal type end table..
use 4 of them as pedistals and make it a coffee table. (peel the bark) that way once you've got the top ready you can use them right away!
Those are great ideas, Frenchy. I could use high-quality casters for feet so I could move the blazing things--they're going to be heavy. And not sealing the bottom that is raised off the floor would allow moisture to escape out the bottom. Seems very reasonable and doable.
Now, somebody tell me why it can't work! (I'm only half kidding--we look for both kinds of responses on BT, those that encourage and those that caution).
weatmich.
I'll play the devils adovocate. Moisture will want to go up it will have a harder time drying going dow. That's not all a bad thing. The slower it dries the less risk of nasty checks. If you are going to put tables on top of it you won't need to seal either end of the logs. If you're going for the logs as tables themselves then I'd find some of that plastic stuff they use on log furniture and do that..
Get that bark off it soon.longer bark is on better chance for borers and bettles to get going.
Be aware that the "pre check" u make could get big enuf to stick u fingers in when it dries.