Weve been using K.D. #1 southern yellow pine overlapping log siding over conventional frame, chip, tyvek. We dont use the log corners that are avaliable but use 2X syp corners and trim. We use straight but joints at splices and trim. With the stain- sealant that will be used to finish the siding we butter the cut joints and overlaps before its nailed up. Three houses no (BIG) problems so far.
Because the owner hasn’t decided on a stain sealer brand or color, the siding will be going up dry. The siding contractor suggests using clear silicon in the butt joints, hopefully the silicon wont be oozing out and visible. Beside the fact that we never use silicon on bare wood and my concerns of trapping moisture, is there any merit to this suggestion? (before I step forward and nix this idea and make everyone mad…again).
FDC
Replies
Silicone won't take stain of any kind.
Just put flashing behind the joint that laps onto the course below it.
You should use a Paintable Water Repellant Protectant.
I think that Jasco makes one that is clear.
And there are some other brands.
The protectant is a copper or tin based anti-fungal. That will reduce rot, mildew, and mold.
And the water repellant is wax based, but no enough to keep it from being painted.
Specially treat the end grain.
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
I would do what both bill and stilletto said treat ends and istall flashing. The ends will wick if left untreated. The flashing is fullproof.