Question 1
What “issues” do I need to look out for when replacing a window in a brick wall with a wood framed interior. The new window won’t be a replacement window, but new construction. I assume I’ll add pressure treated lumber ripped to fill in between the window and brick; brick molding to cover the gap on the outside; and trim the interior.
Question 2
When replacing old windows with new construction windows to a sided wall, is there anyway to avoid removing the siding? (besides replacement windows).
Replies
Why not buy replacement windows? You will save a ton of time. There are lots of options, including Pella and Anderson.
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It's only satisfying if you eat it.
I am avoiding replacements because the steel frame of my original windows are rusting out. No matter what, I need to rip out the whole frame. I need to order new construction without the nail flange. I can spend a lot of money and order them to fit exactly (within 1/4 inch each side and shim), which would make install easy. Or I can order standard sizes and fill the gaps as my previous post stated.
I usually special order the size, clad windows.......so no brickmould. The jamb mounting clips that you can get make anchoring the windows a breeze. I understand your reluctance to pay the extra for specials. In some cases, narrowing up the opening takes over too much of the daylight opening.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Reference to question one:
Assuming that the brick is a veneer and the inside is a wood framed wall. The window would mount to the sheathing between the wood frame and the brick veneer. Do the existing steel framed windows sit on the brick or the wood frame? Either way you will need what the other guys suggested, a window with flanges to mount to either the existing wood framing or a new pressure treated jamb surround of 2x4 or 2x6 or whatever the depth of the inside wood framed wall thickness is.
The CM
Paramount Residential Construction Management
Newtown, Connecticut
Edited 1/12/2006 7:08 pm ET by the cm
In reference to quest 1 and CM's response.
I think my next move is to pull out the sawzall and cut a 2 inch wide gap out of the steel frame both on the side and bottom of a window with the brick (downstairs) and a window with siding (upstairs). That will tell me what the framing in question is. My wife will want to kill me for cutting up windows in January, but I'll survive.
ap. My experience is limited to maybe 20 different brick ven. houses in NW OH. All had wood framing set back from the brick edge maybe a half inch each side and top/bottom. All had plaster returns with heavy plaster corner bead. Most were in the 1930's vintage up into the 50's.
In case she puts the cabosh on you cutting.
The metal frames should clear (or almost clear) the brick if you were miraculously able to pull them straight out. This doesn't usually happen. I cut off the hinge ears, remove the casement sash, then cut and collapse the frame. I start by using the Fein Multimaster to cut out the old caulk.
If you're looking to check the depth of framing, a masonry bit run into the plaster returns (past the corner bead) will feel different when you hit the wood framing. Insert a pc of coathanger or use the bit to measure the depth.
Best of luck.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Great idea Calvin. Thanks... and the wife thanks you too.
An excellent suggestion Calvin.
The CM
Paramount Residential Construction Management
Connecticut
Reference to question two:
If the new windows fit in the existing rough opening, you can either trace around it and carefully cut the siding out with a small circular saw set to depth, or strip the siding off (surgically removing it) and replace it later. Hopefully, its a painted finish.
The CM
Paramount Residential Construction Management
Newtown, Connecticut
If you cut off the siding for the nail flange, I assume you use a brick mold to cover the flange, after proper flashing of course.
Sorry, I was assuming that the window was wood with five quarter exterior casing on it already. I meant tracing around the casing sides and top.
The CM
Paramount Residential Construction Management
Connecticut