Hi,
How should I go about building this patio wall? I will also finish off with a capstone.
Thanks,
Mike
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Replies
Start at the corners and go up to Fin. height. String the top and use a masons line to work from.
For the curved part, make a story pole if you can't trust your trusty 2' level. Lvel here is level there, you just gotta be on the same page.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
Thanks,
I have used a story pole on woodworking projects, on the wall is this to follow the height round the curve?
Mike
>>Start at the corners and go up to Fin. height
Think I would lay up the first course of all the colum/piers, the do each of the next two courses one at a time. It is easier to set the twig blocks and string line for the straight sections of wall that way. Laying up the colums first would push the string outside the wall line.
Thanks,
What's a "twig block"
Mike
The small L shaped wooden or plastic blocks that hook over the outside corners of the block to which the string line is attached and stretched tight.
Good call, can ya tell I'm not a mason?
By God, I'd just eye ball it from a string anywhere close to what I was laying, but then again..I'm no brickie.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
What's your material?
Thanks,
8x8x16 block
Mike
Them type of blocks are not very agreeable with curves.
How's about a more decorative retaining wall block? Anchor has some for free standing walls. Better suited for slight curves.
Thanks,
Yes, they look good. The 2 problems I see with them is the expense, which may work out because I was eventually going to cover the block with a stone veneer. The other problem would be how to run power to the lights on the columns.
Mike
Run 1/2" or 3/4" pvc conduit for your run and up into the columns. The Anchor block system ends up with about a 6" x 6" void in the middle where the conduit can come up within. Your column itself ends up being topped with a cap, or combination of parts to form a cap. The combination type can still have a top cap about 12" x 12".
This cap forms a watertight (as best as it can be) chamber which you can use as a junction box. (Assuming low voltage.) Carefully drill a hole (3/4") in the center of the cap for your wires to run. And then, look in the plumbing supply shops for a mounting base. About 3 1/2" in diameter, and a 1/2" threaded hole in the middle.
Your low voltage lamp fixture should have a 1/2" male threaded base post to it. Stick him into her before mounting the cap, leaving enuff wire to do your hookup.
This light in the foreground is mounted into a Mighty Post which also has a 1/2" threaded cap. Using the above description, three more were positioned on those columns in the background. I ran the wire inside conduits in a big loop back to the transformer. Be sure to understand your wire route ahead of time and build it in as the wall goes up.
View Image
Edited 12/11/2008 12:47 pm by peteshlagor
Thanks,
Forgot to mention, this is going on a slab. What about the cable run in this situation?
Slab's in place?
Pete,
Yes. Here's what I'm aiming for.
Mike
Those post lamps look real big.
Somehow, you're gonna need to run conduits.
Or, skip the curved wall and put in an outdoor fireplace and grill combo. Get rid of that cart in the background.
Which way is the view?
The lights were a quick set up. They're not going to be anyware near that size. I've been looking into those stone blocks since you mentioned them, and I think that is going to be the way to go. It'll save a ton of time not laying the block and not installing the veneer. It may well work out cheaper. I was thinking of just installing an outlet near the 1st column, then running a low voltage cable for the lights. If I set the first course of stone block raised up 1/2" on a channel of mortar I could run the cable in the middle the pick up in the columns going along and using low voltage fixtures. What do you think?
Thanks so much for getting me a thinking,
Mike
My take is just ditch the block all together.
Lay it up in stone and be done with it. The finished product will be far nicer (and more valuable) done in stone rather then concrete block
regardless of type of block.
Plus curves are much friendlier to stone then block.
Put the money you were going to spend on the masonry units into some nice cap stones!
With stone running the power should be a piece of
cake.
mark it on the slab the layout, front of block and back of block, start at corner and have fun.but my opinion, your screwed
Edited 12/11/2008 5:00 pm by brownbagg
I'm not a blocky, but isn't there still "bond beam" cmu available that has depressions in the web for reinforcing steel, which would also be deep enough to run conduit in?
>>Plus curves are much friendlier to stone then block.
After looking at the drawing, I couldn't agree more. Every block in that shallow curve would need to be cut on both ends in order to maintain a decent and even head joint.