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building concrete pool

ndege | Posted in Construction Techniques on June 28, 2008 06:04am

I’m here in zone 4 (that’s USDA zone 4–brrrr, cold, in other words) and I’ve got a job to build a concrete pond. It’ll be 16′ x 5′ and the concrete will be sitting on the ground. Whaddya think about footings etc? This will basically be one big floating concrete tank, and I’m thinking maybe it should just float.

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  1. rez | Jun 28, 2008 08:18pm | #1

    Greetings ndege,

    This post, in response to your question, will bump the thread through the 'recent discussion' listing again which will increase it's viewing.

    Perhaps it will catch someone's attention that can help you with advice.

    Cheers

     

  2. brownbagg | Jun 28, 2008 10:28pm | #2

    no

  3. JeffinPA | Jun 29, 2008 01:48am | #3

    All the pools I know of  are just built in ground. 

    You cant drain them in winter or frost will get under them and heave them.

    Cant drain them in wet season or water will get under them and they will  float, like a big concrete canoe.

    I  dont know where zone 4 is but I am  in southeastern PA

  4. User avater
    popawheelie | Jun 29, 2008 02:18am | #4

    The problem I see is that the frost heave could push it up right in the middle of the 16'. Or on one end.

    You would have to do something so it wasn't stressed beyond it's ability to stay intact.

    One would be to put a base under it that was evenly distributed. The other would be to make it real strong.

    I think having a good even base is cheaper. How is the drainage?



    Edited 6/28/2008 10:16 pm ET by popawheelie

    1. ndege | Jun 29, 2008 02:58am | #5

      Drainage where the pool will sit is pretty good. I've thought about making an insulated concrete footing but can't really get the insulation out far enough in one direction as there are obstacles.You know, if the thing is lined with one of these flexible rubber membranes, so what if it cracks? I mean, heaving such that it starts to look crooked isn't good, but it may just be heavy enough to resist that.

      1. User avater
        popawheelie | Jun 29, 2008 05:21am | #6

        If you have good drainage it should be ok. How about some gravel around it with drain tile that goes out to day light?

        Is there going to be concrete deck around it? Maybe the deck could be pavers so they could move?

        Just make sure there is good drainage.

        1. ndege | Jun 29, 2008 06:26am | #7

          Along one side I've got 6 inches of gravel with flagstone on top. That's all going to move. I could easily surround the other sides of the pool with gravel, letting it sit in 6 - 8 inches of gravel.I'm wondering, with a rubber liner, if I even need a slab at the bottom. Why not just have four walls and line the thing with pea gravel or something else that won't puncture the membrane.Hmmm. Thinking out loud here.

  5. Hudson Valley Carpenter | Jun 29, 2008 09:40am | #8

    I've done several shallow landscape pools like you're describing, about thirty years ago in NY's Mid-Hudson Valley and eastern PA.   They've all survived numerous very cold winters without cracking, moving slightly with the frost.  

    In order to keep them from cracking, I made them with very low angled sides, like a saucer.  I used a lot of 1/2" rebar, bent to the shape of the excavation, supported by bricks and wire tied at each intersection.  The concrete was poured fairly stiff, about six inches thick. 

    There are easier ways to make small ponds now, with black vinyl liner material.  I'd do it that way rather than using concrete.  It's a lot cheaper and simpler.  Also allows for building connecting rock rapids and other shapes.  In other words, you're not restricted to the low angled sides I described for concrete ponds.

     

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