Replies

1. 
   Frankie | Dec 29, 2002 09:14pm | #1

   What's wrong w/ the Oatey? HD has one too. Stock though is a problem around here but it is in their catologue.

2. 
   rjw | Dec 29, 2002 09:33pm | #2

   Plenty of them out there.

   Check with you local code person re the drain - there are some differences of opinion among the code bubbas on this.

   _______________________

   "I may have said the same thing before... But my explanation, I am sure, will always be different."  Oscar Wilde

3. 
   cowpie | Dec 30, 2002 03:06am | #3

   Gary-

   I have used a couple different floor pans and have been satisfied with them. Generally, the greater the capacity, the better, depending on washer size. I learned the hard way the bigger problem is trapping the pan. Some creativity is needed to help keep suds from blowing back up the drain. Use a deeper trap if possible, or fill the trap with oil as a last resort.

4. 
   MajorWool | Dec 30, 2002 04:26am | #4

   Is this going to function asthe primary washer drain, or as an emergency drain? I know that in apartments I've lived in with 2nd floor laundry rooms, that they just had a piece of vertical PVC that you put the outflow tube into, and I assumed it was trapped somewhere down below. I never experienced a problem when using one of these. I would think the bigger concern with a second floor washer would be an emergency situation where the supply hose breaks (or leaks) on a second floor and floods the first floor. This has the potential to cause multiple thousands of dollars of damage, and I know people who have gone through that horror (one while they were on an extended vacation). In that case, a pan around the washer might act to prevent alot of damage and would be a simple and prudent measure to take.

   Hypothetically, if it is there to collect and divert water from leaking supply hoses, I would question whether it needs to be connected into the sewer at all. I've never experienced or heard of a washer that leaks anywhere other than from the supply hoses. Just a thought.

   FWIW, my third floor high-efficiency furnace in the attic sits within a very large metal pan with a separate drain pipe to the outside. There is a primary PVC pipe to drain the normal condensation, the pan acts only as an emergency backup in case something goes wrong with the primary pipe. So pans much bigger than those around water heaters do exist. I know that my water heater overflow is directed to a floor drain that is trapped, but is that required for a second floor unit or can it just be diverted outside somewhere. In theory, it should be no different than using water on your yard.

1. 
   alanesmith | Dec 30, 2002 04:44am | #5

   can't you pipe it to the shower/tub drain just above its trap? or go downstairs and hit any drain above its trap. also, why not just build a cheap shower pan (durock, laticrete 9235 (?), & tile), or even cheaper, get the AC guy to solder a custom jobbie.

   good luck

1. 
   timkline | Dec 30, 2002 06:17am | #6

   Or just skip the pan and get one of these:

   http://www.plumbingsupply.com/washingmachineshutoffvalve.html

   carpenter in transition

5. 
   Scooter1 | Dec 30, 2002 06:35am | #7

   I have done quite a few of these, but none with the Oately product, although Oatley makes great tile stuff. This is what I do:

   First, I determine what the homeowner wants, temporary protection from overflow or permanent protection against overflow and busted supply hoses.

   The former is easy and involves that same type of overflow pan, which will catch about 5-10 gals.

   The latter is more involved and depends on the plumbing situation with the home. If you can plumb a waste line to daylight, jeez, just put in a floor drain and have it go to that daylight. If the finished floor is tile, I might even throw on some trowel on waterproofing over the setting bed, like Laticrete 9235 as a bonus.

   If the home can not be plumbed to daylight, then yes you are correct that you need to install a floor drain and have it primed. The homeowner will shut off the primer but for inspection, you need it in my neck of the woods. This is the type of set up that I generally install, and will describe it in a bit more detail.

   I float a mortar bed or lay CBU's. I prefer to float a bed, so I can feather and float it to a centrally located floor drain in the center of the room, or under the washer. The mud straightens floors, is stronger, and is easier to slope. There is 6 mil poly and 3.5 diamond lathe under the bed.

   I then apply Laticrete 9235 and take the fabric and the latex up the walls about 6 inches. This is sticky smelly stuff, and at $80 a gal is not cheap. I paint over the fabric on the walls. I tile over the fabric on the floor. I use wide baseboard to hopefully cover up the 9235. I install the primer next to the washer supply line box so the homeowner can shut it off, which of course he will do.

   I like to install the braided type supply lines, but they do not accomodate the in line filters, so often the standard rubber lines are installed. I have heard there is an electronic type shutoff that shuts off the water when a line bursts, but I know little of them.

   Other tile setters like to use a sheet membrane, like Pasco light duty shower membranes (40 mil) or Nobel TS (also 40 mil) in lieu of the 9235. I find sheet membranes harder to install but cheaper in the long run. Pick your poison. I have also seen some tile setters install curbs around the washer/dryer set up with full on shower membranes and a 2 part clamping drain. I think this is overkill, but it really depends on the level of protection the homeowner wants.

   Regards,

   Boris

   "Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1927

6. 
   FG02026 | Dec 30, 2002 06:50am | #8

   From my experience one piece washing machine pans dont work very well unlike water heater pans when a water heater leaks it leaks from the bottom and the presure relief valve is piped directly into the pan so the pan collects all the water into a drain . In the case of washing machine leaks 99% of the time its a broken hose that just sprays water everywhere so the most effective method I've seen was a tiled backsplash and floor tilted towards a floor drain which was piped directly to the basement  either into a  utility sink or to a floor drain that leads outside .I would not tie it into a sewer line because of sewer gases without a wet trap or backup if the waste pipes get blocked.

1. 
   GJR | Dec 30, 2002 08:36am | #9

   Thanks to all who took time to reply.   All very good information.  Thanks again and have a healthy and safe new year.  "Don't take life too seriously, you are not getting out of it alive"

1. 
   Mongo | Dec 30, 2002 09:28am | #10

   Here's another prefab option with a pan and back wall protection:

   http://www.floodsaver.com/index.html