Wrap a long sheet of paper around form tube. Match the edges and snug up the sheet.
I like to precut the tops of my footing forms off square at 4 in. to 6 in. above the finish grade. The square cut makes it easy to screed and finish off the concrete smooth and level. Marking for an accurate cut can be a challenge on a cylinder but I’ve found two tricks that are simple and work.
Method 1: Wrap the cylinder with newspaper or large sheets of paper.
Tape 2 or 3 full pages of newsprint end-to-end and then wrap the elongated sheet around the footing form. Keep it snug as you wrap and match the edges of the sheet as they meet around the cylinder. Tape the end of the newsprint to itself and slide one edge to your cut point.
Mark along the edge of the newsprint and you have a straight line.
Method 2: Form-On-Form Cutting Template:
The factory ends on footing forms are usually square to the tube. Hack off a 1 ft. to 2 ft. section off the factory end of a footing form. Make a straight cut along the side of the form from one end to the other. The cut allows you to expand the section around same diameter forms. Slip the section over a form you need to cut. The section will naturally clamp snug around the form and the factory end will demarcate your cut line. You can save the cutting template section and use it to mark all the forms on a deck.
You’ll need a template tube for each nominal form diameter (8 in., 10 in., 12 in., …) you encounter. I have a nested set of different diameter sections I use from job-to-job saved in my storage shed.
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The second tip may not always work out. I've noticed with some brands of forms the nominal sizes aren't all the same diameter. For example, a 10" form could be anywhere between 9.5 inches and 10.5 inches in diameter. It appears they do this intentionally to allow the forms to be nested during shipping.
I've never bothered to make a precisely square cut - I just place the form with the cut side down so the square, factory edge is what you see.
you could also use a flat piece of wood (1x2), measure the distance you want to cut off from the tube, nail thru the wood at that point and use it as a guide.
Often the distances you want to cut off change - simply nail at new points
you could also use a flat piece of wood (1x2), measure the distance you want to cut off from the tube, nail thru the wood at that point and use it as a guide.
Often the distances you want to cut off change - simply nail at new points
A method I have used with small cylindrical shapes that may work with large cylinders is to place the cylinder on a flat surface and secure a marker to a steady object that can be positioned near the cylinder. With the marker positioned at the required cutting height I rotate the cylinder maintaining contact with the marker. Of course this assumes the bottom of the cylinder is square to begin with. This approach may break down if you are making several cuts from the same cylinder but one or two cuts should work out.
A method I have used with small cylindrical shapes that may work with large cylinders is to place the cylinder on a flat surface and secure a marker to a steady object that can be positioned near the cylinder. With the marker positioned at the required cutting height I rotate the cylinder maintaining contact with the marker. Of course this assumes the bottom of the cylinder is square to begin with. This approach may break down if you are making several cuts from the same cylinder but one or two cuts should work out.
To renosteinke, your method rarely ever works as the tape is to thin to stay straight. And, you'll make a line that goes up and down & that's if you use the cloth tape. Using a metal tapemearurer rarely lays flat on the tube.
Using a flat piece of wood, well that's just plain dumb! Won't work either.
As the pictures state above, use newsprint. That's just too thin as the pencil or pen won't track right on the edge of the paper. But, the idea is correct. What you need is a thicker paper to use. But, make sure the paper is long enough to over-lap itself. This method works the best. I should know as I have cut a ton of pipe this way but by using a special tool called a wrap-a-round, it's made out of garlock and is used for marking pipe that will be cut.
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View Comments
What have I used in the past?
Well, there's the always-handy tape measure, wrapped "backwards" around the form.
Or, get fancy and use a cloth tape, like the ones found in sewing kits.
Renosteinke - you should write up those ideas, send them into the FHB Tips and Techniques column and make a few $.
The second tip may not always work out. I've noticed with some brands of forms the nominal sizes aren't all the same diameter. For example, a 10" form could be anywhere between 9.5 inches and 10.5 inches in diameter. It appears they do this intentionally to allow the forms to be nested during shipping.
I've never bothered to make a precisely square cut - I just place the form with the cut side down so the square, factory edge is what you see.
you could also use a flat piece of wood (1x2), measure the distance you want to cut off from the tube, nail thru the wood at that point and use it as a guide.
Often the distances you want to cut off change - simply nail at new points
you could also use a flat piece of wood (1x2), measure the distance you want to cut off from the tube, nail thru the wood at that point and use it as a guide.
Often the distances you want to cut off change - simply nail at new points
A method I have used with small cylindrical shapes that may work with large cylinders is to place the cylinder on a flat surface and secure a marker to a steady object that can be positioned near the cylinder. With the marker positioned at the required cutting height I rotate the cylinder maintaining contact with the marker. Of course this assumes the bottom of the cylinder is square to begin with. This approach may break down if you are making several cuts from the same cylinder but one or two cuts should work out.
A method I have used with small cylindrical shapes that may work with large cylinders is to place the cylinder on a flat surface and secure a marker to a steady object that can be positioned near the cylinder. With the marker positioned at the required cutting height I rotate the cylinder maintaining contact with the marker. Of course this assumes the bottom of the cylinder is square to begin with. This approach may break down if you are making several cuts from the same cylinder but one or two cuts should work out.
To renosteinke, your method rarely ever works as the tape is to thin to stay straight. And, you'll make a line that goes up and down & that's if you use the cloth tape. Using a metal tapemearurer rarely lays flat on the tube.
Using a flat piece of wood, well that's just plain dumb! Won't work either.
As the pictures state above, use newsprint. That's just too thin as the pencil or pen won't track right on the edge of the paper. But, the idea is correct. What you need is a thicker paper to use. But, make sure the paper is long enough to over-lap itself. This method works the best. I should know as I have cut a ton of pipe this way but by using a special tool called a wrap-a-round, it's made out of garlock and is used for marking pipe that will be cut.