previous
  • Hot Water Now
    Hot Water Now
  • 7 Small Bathroom Layouts
    7 Small Bathroom Layouts
  • 7 Smart Kitchen Solutions
    7 Smart Kitchen Solutions
  • Video: Install a Fence
    Video: Install a Fence
  • Design Inspiration
    Design Inspiration
  • Remodeling Articles
    Remodeling Articles
  • All about Roofing
    All about Roofing
  • Classic Cabinets
    Classic Cabinets
  • Magazine Departments
    Magazine Departments
  • Video Series: Tile a Bathroom
    Video Series: Tile a Bathroom
  • Custom Flooring Inspiration
    Custom Flooring Inspiration
  • Pro Tool Rental. Learn More.
    Pro Tool Rental. Learn More.
  • Basement Remodeling Tips
    Basement Remodeling Tips
  • Tips & Techniques for Painting
    Tips & Techniques for Painting
  • Master Carpenter Videos
    Master Carpenter Videos
  • 9 Concrete Countertops Ideas
    9 Concrete Countertops Ideas
  • 7 Trim Carpentry Secrets
    7 Trim Carpentry Secrets
  • Radiant Heat Comparison
    Radiant Heat Comparison
  • Energy-Smart Details
    Energy-Smart Details
  • Clever daily tip in your inbox
    Clever daily tip in your inbox
  • Read FHB on Your iPad
    Read FHB on Your iPad
next

Video: Getting Ready for Door Installation

Length: 7:59
Produced By: Brian Pontolilo, Justin Fink, and John Ross

Most builders tilt the door into the opening and use wood shims between the door frame and the framing to get the jamb plumb. That method works fine when you are installing the trim after the door is installed. But because I trimmed this door already, I won’t be able to add shims from the front. Instead, I am going to use screws as standoffs to plumb each side of the opening. There are actually a few benefits to this approach:

First, the plumbing screws ensure that the frame will be dead plumb as soon as it is lifted into the opening. Second, it’s faster to plumb screws than to fuss over wood shims. Finally, screws allow water to drain should it find its way into the rough opening.

I drive galvanized screws into the framing just above each hinge location. Using a board cut to the width of the door frame, I set the opposing screws at the lower to fit the door.

Using the lower screws as the fixed point, I plumb up the side of the opening, adjusting the upper screws so that they are plumb with the bottom screws.

Before the final installation, I test the fit of the door frame in the opening. Here, and during the final install, it’s a good idea to have some help. Even if you can lift the door frame by yourself, a second set of hands will prove useful once you begin making minor adjustments to the fit of the frame.

This looks good, we’re ready for the final install.