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Flashing a chimney correctly involves two layers of metal: flashing and counterflashing. In this article, roofing contractor Dyami Plotke explains how he tackles each step in the flashing process. He almost always chooses copper for chimney-flashing jobs because of its appearance, endurance, receptiveness to soldering, and malleability. A series of three detailed drawings demonstrates Plotke's steps. The first shows where to cut a groove in the masonry for the counterflashing, how to apply a peel-and-stick underlayment over the OSB sheathing patch and up the sides of the chimney, and how to install the apron. The second shows how to install the step flashing and the pan and includes Plotke's methods for cutting and folding the copper at transition points to make the tightest fit. The third shows how to install the counterflashing. Before sealing the counterflashing to the brick, Plotke uses wedges of folded copper to hold the counterflashing in its groove, and copper pop rivets to connect the counterflashing on the up-slope edge to the counterflashing on the sides. On the up-slope side of large chimneys, he installs a copper cricket to shed water and snow.
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Protect the outside and the inside of the house, and tear off only what you can reroof in a dayby Stephen Hazlett
Installing the flashing along with the bricks makes for a more secure and much better-looking jobby John Carroll
A little more expensive but a lot longer lasting, steel roofing is an easy-to-install, attractive alternative to shingle or tile roofsby John La Torre Jr.
Installation details can make the difference between a trouble-free roof and an expensive callbackby Scott McBride
Soldered copper flashing for a rooftop watershedby Scott McBride
Watch the Passive House video series
Sheathing Walls with Zip System
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