Advanced vs Traditional Framing

comments (6) December 11th, 2012 in Blogs

Matt Risinger, Blogger

Video Length: 6:19
Produced by: Matt Risinger

Advanced Framing can get a bad rap for being too "geeky" for a traditional builder. I mean who wants to train your drywall guys to use drywall clips everywhere? And isn't lumber a renewable resource? In this video I'll explain the differences between Traditional Framing and what I like to call Practical Advanced Framing. Hopefully this will get a few of the old guard off the fence and give Advanced Framing techniques a fresh look.

-Matt Risinger

Principal of Risinger Homes a High Performance Architect's builder in Austin, TX

posted in: Blogs, green building, framing, insulation, lumber, Insulated Headers, Advanced Framing, high performance construction

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Comments (6)

Stepford writes: I always like a push to save money or preserve wood, but this doesn't necessary accomplish it with quality. Going from 2x4 to 2x6 walls for added insulation only makes sense in Northern climates in midwest areas subject to 3 or more months under an average 50 degree weather. Anyone who has ever used currently produced 2x6 (southern pine, hemlock, spruce) knows how these move and nothing will hold them in-line, especially with 1/2 or 3/8 OSB vs plywood. Popped drywall screw or nail heads will be common in 24" framing. The 5/8 drywall, will cost more in price and installation. 24" oc framing has been around since the 60's, and then the wood was much better on knot size and degree of KD dryness. Siding on 24" studding also tends to sag if its 1/2" lap or vinyl. OSB won't hold nails well vs going into the studs. Plywood or 3/4" lap or composite (fiber/cement) are the only good ways to go. Certainly an increase in costs on lower end homes. California corners are cheaper but weaker. Forget the sheetrock clips, unless you're leaving town after completing the project. Check your local codes and get ready for call backs on the corner cracking. Plumbers and electricians love drilling less holes, so some savings my be realized with 24"oc. Be careful on headers which are aligned to one edge of the studding (normally the outside edge. Drywaller's will be temped to nail/screw into the inside of header, which is just styrofoam in this case. Lastly, telling a custom home buyer you'd like to try 24" framing will be greeted with significant skepticism. Save it for a Spec.
Posted: 4:17 pm on December 17th

TLM80209 writes: On California Corners we've had backing problems for the exterior trim, so we've often had to use a "U" shaped corner to nail lap siding to on exteriors with corner boards.
Posted: 1:12 pm on December 17th

TLM80209 writes: I agree with Matt about studs on 24" centers. I'm a big fan of "everything stacked". 24" center studs make for stacked framing, from the roof trusses, rafters and wall studs, down to the floor joists, etc. At some point many years ago in Colorado we went from 2X4 framed walls 16" O.C., to 2X6 framed walls for more insulation space. But we stuck with the 16" O.C.! Not necessary! Besides being a waste of wood, that extra wood robs the wall of needed insulation space.

Matt should have addressed the horizontal blocking between the studs. One row flat to the sheathing, one row perpendicular. Nail blocking for the sheathing?
Posted: 12:59 pm on December 17th

sals_dad writes: Got it - here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aYqgdLB10pE
Posted: 10:03 am on December 17th

sals_dad writes:
Posted: 10:01 am on December 17th

sals_dad writes: Video doesn't work - for me, anyway.
Posted: 9:59 am on December 17th

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