How to Install a Load-Bearing Beam
Here's a strighforward approach to removing a wall with the help of a temporary stud wall and a new LVL beam
There are a number of ways to remove a load bearing wall. How you decide to do it will depend on what you are trying to achieve. If you want to connect two rooms with a flat ceiling, then you’ll have to replace the wall with a beam hidden in the ceiling. If you want an open cathedral ceiling, you’ll need to bring the beam all the way up to the ridge. In any case, before you can remove the existing load bearing wall, you’ll need to build some sort of temporary support wall. And nearly all methods will require the addition of a load bearing beam. Placing the beam below the existing ceiling joists is a method that’s pretty straight forward.
Whether you are creating a new opening in a load-bearing wall or just widening an existing opening, your work will require the addition of a header or beam. These structural members–which can be solid wood, engineered building components such as an LVL, or even steel–are designed to transfer the weight right above the opening down the two sides, and onto another properly sized component. Without this intentional route for the weight to be transferred, known as a load path, the structure above the opening will not be adequately supported, and in minor cases can sag, or in serious cases, can collapse. Here’s how to temporarily support the overhead load and add in a new structural beam to replace the current load-bearing wall.
For more information on this topic:
Shoring up a load-bearing wall
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As always, consult an engineer, what's missing with this recommendation? Blocking of the floor joists
Yes, blocking under the subfloor!! Where are those point loads going?! This is the MOST important part of installing a beam.
Good Video although it seems that GRK was the deciding influence in the decision for which fasteners to use. We never use structural screws where we can use nails simply due to the cost and speed. You could have added that a couple well placed clamps will suck the two pieces together. It's great that you can find sponsors to fund these little videos. But to tilt the process to promote one product or method over another doesn't seem quite on the up and up. Or maybe you should include a disclaimer the next time that in fact the video is actually a commercial for a favored product.
Paul Jenkinson
Structural Framing Contractor.
As others have mentioned the new point loads must be supported properly under the floor. And blocking between the existing floor joists.
Also, I think that I would have notched the king stud the thickness of one LVL to allow one LVL to lap the king stud and allow screws through this LVL member into the king stud.
And a beam that long certainly must require more than 1 jack stud at each end.
Here in Florida, joists are usually not an issue... ground floor residences and cement slabs.
Does anyone have experience with raising the LVL beams
so they are hidden in the ceiling? I have a project coming up where I plan to remove part of a load-bearing wall and raise the structural beams so that the ceiling continues straight through the new opening.
I am planning on using joist hangars and steel straps.
The span, which currently includes a 36" door, will be about 8' when completed.
Any thoughts would be most appreciated.
Yes- is there an established load path for the king studs and also why wouldn't you glue in between LVL's?? So easy to make it so much stronger.