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How-To

Building and Installing a Site-Built Balustrade: Cutting the Posts and Rails

Follow along with deck builder Scott Grice as he lays out and cuts the frame for a cedar railing.

By Scott Grice
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Of all the railing options, installing a site-built railing will probably get you the most bang for your buck without the hassle of product research, ordering, and an installation learning curve. The balustrade installation outlined here uses off-the-shelf hardwood balusters chosen because they match the decking but also because they have a slightly smaller profile than a typical softwood baluster. The rails are made of cedar 1x lumber, ripped on site, to match the cedar posts and custom cap.

Cutting the posts and rails

It’s important to cut all the posts at an even height so the finished cap doesn’t wander up and down. To avoid transferring discrepancies from the decking to the railing, establish the height of one post and then transfer that elevation to the other posts. First, measure up from the finished deck height to the location of the underside of the railing to establish the top of the posts. For a 36-in. railing height with a 2×6 cap, the cutline will be 34-1/2 in. Use a long spirit level or a laser level to transfer that elevation to all the posts. With a Speed Square, continue the elevation line all the way around each post to ensure a continuous guide for the sawblade. Cut all the posts to the same height. A good check is to eye down the tops of the posts to make sure they are all aligned.

1. Measure up from the finished deck to the underside of the railing cap.
1. Measure up from the finished deck to the underside of the railing cap.

2. For a standard residential railing height of 36 in., the cutline will be at 34-1/2 in.

3. Level between the posts to transfer the cutline elevation to all the posts.
3. Level between the posts to transfer the cutline elevation to all the posts.

4. Draw the cutline all the way around each post to provide a good reference for the cut.
4. Draw the cutline all the way around each post to provide a good reference for the cut.

5. Cut all the posts to the same height. For reference, sight down the line of posts to check that they are all the same height.
5. Cut all the posts to the same height. For reference, sight down the line of posts to check that they are all the same height.

To determine the rail length, place a 1x between the posts at the bottom and mark the length. For the deck shown here, there is a pair of rails for the bottom and a pair for the top (inside and outside for each). If you’ve been careful to keep everything plumb, the distance between the posts shouldn’t differ from the top and bottom. If the distance is within an 1/8 in. or so, just treat the measurements as identical and cut all four rails the same length; test-fit them at the bottom. Sometimes post distance will vary a little from top to bottom, and it’s more work than it’s worth to adjust them. In these cases, treat the bottom and top separately and fit them as pairs of railings. Identify the show face (the better-looking side) and label the rails on the back to indicate where they go.

6. Mark the distance between two posts on a length of rail. This will become a story pole on which to mark the baluster locations.
6. Mark the distance between two posts on a length of rail. This will become a story pole on which to mark the baluster locations.

7. Cut four rail pieces to that length and test-fit them between the posts.
7. Cut four rail pieces to that length and test-fit them between the posts.

8. Test-fit two of the rail pieces between the posts at the height of installation.
8. Test-fit two of the rail pieces between the posts at the height of installation.

9. Identify where the railing pieces go by writing their location on the back after you’ve fit them.
9. Identify where the railing pieces go by writing their location on the back after you’ve fit them.

 


Use a guide for a perfect cut

If you’re not confident about freehanding a straight cut on the posts, it takes only a minute to set up a guide that will ensure a perfect cut every time.

Measure the distance from the side of the blade to the edge of the saw base. This is the blade offset. Measure the distance of the offset down from the elevation line and make a mark. Square the mark across the face of the post and around all four sides. Clamp a guide board aligned to the lower line. Use the block to guide the saw. After the first cut, reposition the block on the opposite face to finish the cut.

1. Measure the distance from the side of the blade to the edge of the saw base.
1. Measure the distance from the side of the blade to the edge of the saw base.

2. This is the blade offset. Measure the distance of the offset down from the elevation line and make a mark.
2. This is the blade offset. Measure the distance of the offset down from the elevation line and make a mark.

3. Square the mark across the face of the post and around all four sides.
3. Square the mark across the face of the post and around all four sides.

4. Clamp a guide board aligned to the lower line.
4. Clamp a guide board aligned to the lower line.

5. Use the block to guide the saw. After the first cut, reposition the block on the opposite face to finish the cut.
5. Use the block to guide the saw. After the first cut, reposition the block on the opposite face to finish the cut.

 

Photos: John Ross

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